Corset class – cleaning

If you make your own corset, or if you’ve bought one, at some point you’re probably going to need to clean it somehow….

Caveat & read first

First of all, the most important care instructions should be included with your corset. In a store-bought corset, there must be a label in the garment which includes care instructions (at least according to Canadian labeling laws – your local laws may differ).  However if you have purchased a custom-made corset or have bought one from an independent corsetiere, you may not have a label sewn into your corset and instead should have received care instructions from whomever made the corset.

These instructions supersede any other instructions you might read online, think up, hear from a friend, and certainly my suggestions…  If the instructions say “dry clean only” (and in most cases, that’s exactly what they will say…) you should follow those instructions – to do otherwise is at your own risk…

Some fabrics just shouldn’t be washed.  If you have a leather, fur, suede, or similar corset,  you won’t want to wash it.  While you may consider your potential for risk in cleaning the lining, the non-washable ‘fabric’ shouldn’t be washed. Art corsets (paper, paper mache, plastic, duct tape, etc) should be considered art, and treated as needed to maintain their integrity.

Spot treatment

If there are just small areas needing to be cleaned, you’ll be looking to spot-clean the garment.  First of all you need to figure out what the soil or stain is, what your corset is made of, and where the spot is.

Before using any chemical on your corset, you should test it.  Pick an inconspicuous spot (on the inside of the corset, under the arm, on the modesty panel, or if you were really lucky, on the self-fabric swatch or bag provided by your corsetiere.  Use a small amount of whatever cleaner you want to use on a clean, white facecloth, and ‘clean’ the hidden spot as if it were the soiled area.

• Check the white cloth; did any dye come off onto the facecloth?
• Check the corset; did the cleaner change the colour of your corset in any way?

If everything is good – go ahead and use your preferred cleaner specifically on the small spot needing to be cleaned.  If there are any problems, you’ll want to take your corset to a professional cleaner.

If you have a leather or PVC corset you may be able to simply wipe the spot with a clean, dry cloth.

Different types of ‘soiling’ may require different kinds of treatment.  For instance oily stains (body oil, lipstick, some food, etc) require a lot more attention than dry material.  Consider the type of ‘soil’ in choosing your cleaning technique.

Scents (oh that smokey nightclub…)

I’m ecstatic that bars and clubs in my area have gone smoke-free, but smoke is a pretty common complaint – along with perfume and other scents that your corset may have absorbed.  Different fabrics are more susceptible to absorbing scents too, but there are a few ways you can try to get rid of the scents.

1) Just air it out….  Let the corset hang in a well-ventilated area, with as much air movement on all sides for a while, and mild scents will disappear with time.

2) Fabreeze - Some people have recommended (although I’ve never done it, and thus can’t recommend it) spraying your corset with a scent-remover spray like Fabreeze.  I personally think that Fabreeze smells terrible, so I don’t do it.  The same caveat for cleaning chemicals applies – test first.

3) Vodka - Likewise, some people have recommended (although I’ve never done it, and thus can’t recommend it) spraying your corset with a mix of vodka and water. (I’ve heard of a 10% vodka to water mix, to 50/50% – if you use this technique, please post your recommendation in the comments below!)  The same caveat for cleaning chemicals applies – test first.

4) Association – I’ve never tried this either, but I’ve read people suggesting ‘pulling’ the scent out using either baking soda or Fabreeze. The technique is to put the corset in a container or bag along with a box of baking soda (like you would put in your fridge) or a cloth sprayed with Fabreeze.  With this method the product doesn’t ever touch the corset – but just being in the container with it will ‘pull’ out the unwanted scent.   Once the scent is removed, remove the corset from the container for storage. (I’ll have storage suggestions in another post.)

5) Cleaning – sometimes just airing my corset out isn’t enough for me, in which case I clean it… see below for how I do that.

A corset of mine with the round nylon cord for back lacing. (Shown on a dressform, so it doesn’t fit properly…

My personal thoughts on dry cleaners

Personally, I’ve never worked for a dry cleaner, nor have I really taken many garments to dry cleaners… however I have heard dozens of stories about items being wrecked at dry cleaners while working at fabric stores (where people came in to replace buttons that were melted or destroyed) and for a custom clothing designer (where people came in hoping a damaged garment could be saved or replaced).

My personal opinion of dry cleaners; I don’t use them.

Most of the time clothing items are constructed without fabric being pre-washed; pre-washing fabrics for mass production just isn’t cost-efficient.  However, pre-washing fabrics can do a number of things – it removes excess sizing, removes some excess dye (but not always all), softens fibers, pre-shrinks fabrics, etc.  If a garment is made up with fabric that has not been pre-washed – then all of those negatives can happen to your garment if you wash it.  That’s why clothing makers put “dry clean only” on a lot of garments – even those where the fabrics don’t normally need to be dry cleaned.  Basically, it puts the problem in the hands of the dry cleaners or customer and out of their hands…

Cleaning

Since I make most of my own corsets, I know how the fabrics have been treated before the corset was made.  I also am aware of the condition of the boning and other material that has gone into the corset – thus I know exactly what kind of cleaning I can do.

If you don’t make your own corsets, here are some things to be aware of:

1) Rust – if water sits on the bones for a while, rust can form.  Additionally, although most “white bones” are covered (the white materials), I have seen bones where the white plastic has split – rust is a definite factor with those.  Plastic bones are not affected by water.  You can reduce your risk of rust by ensuring that your corset dries quickly (but without excess heat which can cause other problems).

2) Colour bleeding – just like when you’ve washed your white towels with the red t-shirt – dye can bleed.  This isn’t a big deal if you wash your corset by itself, and the trim, laces, and lining are all the same colour, but if you have a black corset with white piping or lace, this might be a concern.  There are ‘dye magnets’ that may help with this – but if you have a high-contrast corset, you may wish to test for colour bleeding before washing your corset, or send it to a professional cleaner.

3) Shrinkage – while it’s not going to make your 30″ corset a 24″… fabric can shrink.  More importantly, it can shrink differently in each direction.  This means that the fabrics, held in place with your boning, can seem to ‘warp’ if they shrink.  You can minimize shrinkage by avoiding high heat, using mild cleansers (if any) and minimizing agitation (rubbing).

4) Changing the texture – while washing can soften fabrics, sometimes it can also change the texture through shrinkage or changing the sheen of the fabric.  I’ve found this most frequently happens with those “Chinese brocades” that are commonly used for corsets, and a lot of silks. Your best bet to avoid this is to test the fabric in an inconspicuous spot, and follow the suggestions for shrinkage.

5) Warping – you will also want to avoid warping your corset in the cleaning process.  This is pretty easy to do – avoid washing machines, avoid wringing the corset to dry, and avoid rolling the corset in a towel in a way that doesn’t follow the direction of your boning. You’ll also want to avoid excessive heat which can warp plastic boning, and avoid laundry dryers.

6) Bleaching – obviously… avoid bleach! You’ll also want to avoid any cleaners that might bleach colour out of the corset fabric.  Don’t forget the power of the sun; the sun can bleach colour out of fabrics as well- so as tempting as a bright sunny window might be for drying your corset, keep that in mind.

My techniques

As I mentioned, I make my own corsets and thus know what is safe for them.  Your experience may be different, but here is what I do:

1) First I handle any spot-cleaning that might be needed.

2) Next, in a large sink I will use a very mild laundry detergent and a sufficient amount of water to hand-wash the corset in lukewarm water.  I rinse in the sink.

3) Next, I hang the corset by the laces from two plastic coat hangers in my shower, and ‘hose’ them off. If the corset just needs to be rinsed, I’ll skip steps 1 & 2 and go straight to this step.

4) To dry, I hang the corset by the laces from the two plastic hangers so that the two sides of the corset stay apart, and let it drip-dry in the shower, which has decent ventilation.

5) I don’t store the corset until it is completely dry.

Other cleaning options

Some of the other techniques for cleaning that I’ve heard from fellow corset lovers include:

“I wash my corsets by hand in the kitchen sink and then hang them by their laces over the shower rod. I use a free and clear laundry detergent.” – Isabelle

“Corsets are dry clean only, as any steel boning would rust if left wet” – Sassy

“Hand wash the corset in warm water with a mild powder and rinse in cold running water. Don’t wring the corset, and then wrap in a towel to remove moisture. Dry on a drying frame away from heat.” – Lisa

“Mix a mild washing powder with warm water and sponge the corset to clean.” – Mata

If professional cleaning is your preferred option

As you know, I personally don’t use dry cleaners, but, if your corset label instructs “Dry Clean Only” and you don’t want to risk your investment by using any other option, you’ll want to pick the RIGHT cleaner.

Dry cleaners don’t see a lot of corsets.  They’re unusual garments, and have a few aspects that require unique treatment and care.  Taking your corset to the closest strip-mall dry cleaner might be a bad idea.  I remember a wedding dress where all of the bustle-ties were cut (rather than untied) in order to clean the skirt… your loopy laces could suffer the same fate if the cleaner was equally as oblivious.

Generally speaking, I’d suggest finding out which cleaner in your area specializes in wedding dresses. A cleaner who works with wedding dresses has probably seen a few corsets, and will understand special treatment for fine fabrics, embroidery, boning, and lacing. Talk to them in advance and ask about their experience with corsets and how they intend to clean yours. Alternately (and harder to find) you can look for a cleaner who specializes in theatrical and ballet costumes.

Your turn!

How do you clean and care for your corsets? Leave us some comments in the field below!  If you want more information from my “corset class”, just follow the category link!

Cut! – Jane Eyre – Jane’s undergarments

Costume Poster

My previous post about the wedding dress from Jane Eyre gave a little sneak peek of the undergarments used to create the look for the dress itself. It probably is no surprise that I found the undergarments way more interesting than the dress itself.

Need a reminder?  Here’s that sneak-peek photo again, showing the dress in the foreground, with the undergarments in the background – complete with a chemise, corset, bloomers and hoop skirt/support.

From Jane Eyre

And below… the full version of the undergarments.

From Jane Eyre

I don’t know why the hem on the hoop is red – but I can remember several references (none of which can I find on short notice!) talking about petticoats and other underskirts being made of red flannel or red serge (both wool) so I imagine this has more to do with trend or fashion than practicality.  After all, a woman would have used one hoop under several different skirts, and I would imagine that a flash of red from under a more somber coloured dress would have been interesting… if you know the reason – please fill me in in the comments below!

From Jane Eyre

Above is a close up of the chemise, with a narrow ivory ribbon through a wide trim of lace, lots of tucking and lace insertion, and pale pink feather stitch embroidery. Tiny self-covered(?) buttons trim the front

From Jane Eyre

Here’s a photo of the top of the corset, with a wide band of red embroidered white cloth to bind the top, and hand-stitching also in red at the end of the bones.  I wish that the corset back was visible, and I would have liked to see this in different lighting to get a better idea of some of the lines of construction for the corset too.  Ah well!

From Jane Eyre

I found the adjustable center front for the top of the hoop skirt kind of interesting, and although hoops haven’t been my area of study, I really haven’t seen this before.  This is another area I’ll ask for comments about.. do you know what this is for?  It would appear that the hoop below the lacing panel is fixed in circumference, so the lacing only can affect the shape of the two upper-most hoops.  Would this have been done to change the shape?  If so, I can only imagine it changing slightly – so what’s the point here?  Also, why is the panel in the front versus the back?

From Jane Eyre

A close up of the red twill tape connecting the hoops and the leather strap used to create the lacing panel.  I find it interesting that eyelets were used instead of rivets on the twill tape to create the straps for the hoops.  I wonder if this was intentional?  (Or a make-due when someone ordered lots of eyelets and not enough rivets!?)

From Jane Eyre

A shot of the red panel at the bottom, softening the final edge of the hoop.

So… I have a few questions about the hoop – can you answer them in the comments below?

Cut! – The Duchess – Underthings

The next few posts from the Cut! costume exhibit will be on one of the displays I liked the most – the costumes from the movie The Duchess.  I’ll admit, I didn’t really LIKE the movie – I found the plot and acting forgettable, but I do remember being impressed with the costumes!  I find it funny that in this trailer, there’s two minutes of video, and the first minute is basically devoted to the costumes.. hahaa.

 

A bit of a tease.... it takes the underthings on the right to support the look on the left. Of course, I'll have photos of the purple dress soon too!

Here’s a bit of a tease… in order to create the shapes of the gowns (like the pink/purple gown on the left), you need the underthings.  Of course, I’ll show photos of the pink/purple gown in a future post, but consider this a taste for the time being!
The basic items include:

• Chemise: worn against the body for modesty and to protect the other clothing from body oils, sweat, etc.  These were usually super-fine linen, and typically fairly simple (you wouldn’t want colour or texture of trim to show through the other clothing you were wearing) although I’ve seen some from other periods that started to get pretty elaborate in themselves.  I think that chemise is the French term, where as the English term I think is ‘shift’.  I tend to use them interchangeably.
• Corset: This is a back-lacing corset with cut-on tabs (rather than ones that are sewn in separately) and semi-adjustable shoulder straps.  For this era, the corset could have cut-on tabs, sewn-in tabs, or no tabs at all (which is the easiest to make, but has it’s downside too).  The tabs are an important part of supporting the skirts that go over top.  The shoulder straps aren’t to hold the corset up (corsets should always be cut so that they don’t need straps for support) but rather to support the necklines/shoulder lines of the dresses over top.  With super-wide necklines, you’d need some support to keep them from slipping off and creating a wardrobe malfunction!  These corsets do NOT have a busk to open them on center front (or elsewhere) which is really impractical for modern use, because they mean that you have to have someone else lace you into your corset – there is almost no way to do it effectively yourself.
• Paniers: an oval-shaped short ‘hoop skirt’ used to create the overall effect of the skirt.  For this era you shouldn’t use a hoop skirt which gives a full effect at both sides, front, and back, but rather the paniers which only give fullness at the sides.  These are filled with hoop steel.

Full shot of the corset along with the shift below.

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Side shot of the corset

I mentioned that untabbed corsets are easier to make – that is because you need to bind every edge of every tab.  Tabs that are sewn in are the next level, since you still need to bind every tab, but only have to worry about outside corners and not inside corners.  This style with the cut-on tabs is the most complicated to bind, and pretty much has to be done entirely by hand to even approach getting the binding smooth.

Tabs on the waist of the corset

Beautiful mitered corners on the corset tab binding!

Side-back of the corset and the top of the paniers

This corset fits the dressform so well!  (There is an even space between the two sides with the lacing.)  I would not normally be tying off my laces at the bottom, but rather at the middle, but perhaps this is more accurate for this time?  I’m not sure.  Note the slanted seam on the back shoulder.

Side view of the underthings

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a shot from under the 'skirt'.

I was so sneaky – and held my camera UNDER the paniers, to capture some of the construction details.

• It looks like they’ve just used wide twill tape to run the hoop steel through
• The support on the side looks to be stuffed muslin.  I imagine this is to keep the hoops in line (so they don’t twist and skew the shape) but also to allow some flexibility in the rise and fall of the hoops, but not TOO much rise and fall which might ‘collapse’ the hoops when not desired.

Another shot from the under side of the paniers

Another under side view – showing excess fabric gathered onto the hoop steel at the front (or back… not sure…) and the side ties which also keep the hoops from skewing off in a different direction – keeping them oval rather than letting them go into a round shape that the steel would rather release into.

Another shot showing how the paniers are made.

Such a cool display!  I really would have loved to see more of the costumes displayed in a way that I could get a 3/4 look at like this – it was displayed on the end of a line of costumes, which meant I was able to get more views.

 

Steampunk Costume inspiration: ‘paper’ dolls

Even as a child I never really played with paper dolls – I had lots of real dolls with lots of clothes for them, and I would make up my own little clothes for them as well (with varying levels of taste). However, the other day I was wandering on the internet and found a digital paper doll website – and there were a number of Steampunk dolls too!  I was excited to see how different things might work together, and so made up a few of the different dolls.

The first doll, just playing around

I started just playing around to see what the game would do – this game is called Victorian Butterfly, and it’s rather cute!

The second doll, when I started thinking about using it as an inspiration tool

Next up I actually thought about plugging in something I would actually make. Oddly enough, it’s not too far off from the first one! I tried different variations (with pants and other things) and still kept coming back to this kind of look.  I thought that the skirt (without the apron-thing) would be more flattering, though the leg-o-mutton sleeves aren’t really my thing.

The third doll - less transformable, but neat ideas

Then there was another game, called Clockwork Couture (isn’t there a clothing name called that?). (p.s. yeppers there is!)  You can also play this on Deviant Art if you’re so inclined – I had hoped that maybe there would be more items, but nope.  If you don’t want to play, just go for the game’s music… I had it playing on my computer for an hour or so, even though it’s on a loop.

The graphics are probably the best thing about this game – the selection of clothing is small compared to the other two, and you can’t change the colours – but they are so beautifully drawn!  My only challenge, is that although the individual pieces are great (both Steampunk and fashionable, without being overly costume-y), I found it  hard to find things that really went together well from my perspective.  Another cool thing though is how well-transformed the clothing is by some interesting accessories. An interesting dress goes from a party dress with the addition of stockings, boots, belts, bracers, a jacket, or a hat – to a cool Steampunk look.

BTW, the same artist has an awesome pirate one too, called Polkadot Pirate.  Hmmm it makes me wonder about an airship pirate look…

Yar!

 

The fourth doll with beautiful artwork.

The third game is called Steampunk Costume Creator – which has nice artwork (not as amazing as the previous game, but certainly beautiful!)  The best part is that there are a LOT of different fashion items, so there is a wide variety of looks.  It’s all colour-coordinated too, since it’s all in shades of brown, taupe, white, and black (with the exception of one pair of red-pink stockings).  You can adjust the item though with the Dark, Medium, Light selector.  The only problem that I have with it, is that you HAVE to use a corset, and it ALWAYS goes over top of the shirt.  Unfortunately this  means that a lot of the super-cute vests and shirts aren’t really workable, since they are always working with the corset.  That being said, there are some super-cute pieces, and some great accessories.

Four alternate looks

Have you found any other digital ‘paper’ dolls that embrace the steampunk aesthetic?  Let me know in the comments below!

Corset class – All laced up

Corset lacing

I have a brief discussion about what to use for corset lacing that I’d like to share as well.

For the most part you want strong laces, that can withstand the tug and pull of cinching your corset up firmly.  I prefer round laces simply because with flat laces, I think they need to be smoothed out and flat to look their best – and unless you have someone helping you get into your corset and then flattening all of your laces, that’s just not going to happen!

A ribbon laced corset of mine. You can see even though I tried really hard to smooth out all the ribbons, it's still not perfect.

Some corset makers use double-faced satin ribbons in their corsets, but generally for regular wear I don’t recommend it.  Again there is the issue of twisting, curling and flattening the laces, but also the holes the laces pass through are round, which means that when faced with strain, the ribbons will naturally start to curl within the grommet hole.  Additionally, I’ve see satin ribbons pass through less-than-perfect grommet holes, and get snagged – which might not mean much, but satin ribbon has a high percentage of floating threads (which gives it that great sheen) which means the chances of snagging your ribbon increases.

The only time that I’d suggest ribbon (and then again, double-faced ribbon) would be for a wedding corset – where the time can be taken to slowly get into the corset and flatten the ribbons, and where the corset will not be worn extremely tightly.  The look of white or cream ribbon (or black, or red, or whatever colour you like) on a wedding corset really does have an appeal, but for normal wear I just don’t feel that the effort is worth it.  YMMV (Your mileage may vary) on this one!

Some individuals recommend parachute cord, which apparently is readily available (though I’ve never found it), shoelaces (I’ve never found them long enough) or other alternatives.  I prefer a simple nylon round cord that I can purchase by the meter or by the spool.  (I have two spools actually, one white, one black, and that suits me just fine!)

A corset of mine with the round nylon cord for back lacing. (Shown on a dressform, so it doesn't fit properly...)

I would recommend avoiding anything:

• Too expensive (you’ll need a lot of cord to lace your corset!)
• Bulky (it will just get in the way)
• Too narrow (it needs to be able to support your tugging without cutting into your hands)
• Too fragile (again, it needs to be able to support all of your tugging)
• Slippery (it needs to be able to tie a firm knot) (Satin rat-tail cord is pretty, but save it for a different project.)
• Too short (having three knots all the way down your corset lacing doesn’t look great in my opinion)
• Too long (you don’t want those laces dangling too far down)

Feedback

Take a look at any of the corsets you already own – what do they use for lacing?  Do you like it, or do you think you’d like to use something different for one you’ll make yourself?  Leave me a comment below!

Corset class – A hole in one

Grommets and grommet setters

There are a lot of different types of grommets (along with eyelets) that you can find in your local fabric store, craft store, specialty store or online.  First off, there is debate about what is what – so I’m going to tell you the terms I use for different things, and we can go from there.  You might disagree with my definition, but that’s fine, just roll with me for the time being!

• I generally refer to one-piece items as eyelets.  These are usually smaller than what I call grommets.  You make your hole, push it through, and then from the back use a tool and a hammer to roll the barrel of the eyelet down (or splits it to splay it out on the back side)  to reinforce the fabric (or paper).  You can find these in scrapbook supplies, fabric shops, and I’ve seen them in the leather section of craft stores too.  You can also find a pliers-like hand tool to close the eyelet as well.
• I refer to two-piece items as grommets.  The first piece looks very much like an eyelet, but then there is an additional washer on the back to reinforce the fabric.  The tool rolls  the grommet down (it should not split and splay) to reinforce the fabric.  You can use a pliers-like hand tool, a hammer, shaped anvil and a setting tool, or a press to install grommets. These are also available in a range of sizes, though usually larger than eyelets.  Some people simply refer to large items as grommets and small ones as eyelets, but I prefer the one-piece/two-piece distinction.

In my experience, without the use of the shaped anvil, grommets and eyelets both have a tendency to get squished.  Since I like a uniform look in my grommets, this bugs me.  With the washer on the back, the item seems more secure, and less likely to rip out of the fabric.  When eyelets split and splay on the back side of the fabric, this can catch on other garments or on your corset lacing and be uncomfortable to wear.

So, let’s go forward with the idea that you’re going to use grommets in your corset for the lacing! How do you set them?

There are three tools/methods to use:

• 

  The pliers-like hand tool from Scrapbook.com

  A pliers-like hand tool – These are commonly found where ever you buy your grommets, and they are fairly simple to use, but I find difficult to use well and consistently.  The advantage – they’re quiet, portable, and affordable.  If you are the kind of sewer who is up until 3am sewing for an event the next day – your downstairs neighbors will appreciate you using this method instead of the following method with a hammer!  However, I find that it’s difficult to get consistent results with this tool, and if you use a variety of sizes of grommets, you’ll need a new tool for each size.  I found that I needed a lot of hand strength to use this – which was fine on the first five or eight, but around the 15th grommet, I was in a lot of pain.

• 

  Grommet setting tool with anvil from Tandy Leather

  A hammer, shaped anvil & a setting tool – This is another affordable option. You probably already have the hammer, so you just pick up the anvil and setting tool with your grommets.  Don’t worry, the “anvil” is more of a ‘receiving base’ and is about the size of a stack of 6 nickels.  You’ll also need a flat, sturdy surface – like the floor or a work bench, and a mat or something (like one of those self-healing mats or a cutting board) to avoid scratching your surface (or your floor).  This is slightly less portable (because you’ll need the hammer, but much more portable than the next option.  I find that the results are pretty good with this method, and fairly consistent, though every now and again there will be a mis-shaped grommet.  This however is NOISY, and you likely won’t win any favors from anyone trying to sleep or watch tv while you pound away.  Like the pliers-like hand tool, you’ll need a different tool and anvil for each size of grommet you use.

• 

  Craftool hand press from Tandy Leather

  A press with a shaped die – This is my preference for reliable and consistent results.  I would say only 1/100 grommets ends up being mis-shaped when I use this, and that is almost always due to my carelessness or trying to do things too quickly.  Using this is incredibly quiet, and you don’t need a lot of hand-strength to operate the press. The downside – it’s heavy, not really portable at all, expensive, and hard to find.  You’ll also need a different die for each grommet size you use, and the dies themselves are also expensive and hard to find.  With that being said, you can also find dies for making a hole in the fabric, for installing snaps, studs, rivets and other repetitive tasks.

Feedback

I think it’s pretty clear which method I prefer, what about you? Leave a comment in the box below and let me know!

If you’re  just joining me… click the Corset Class category (on the right hand side, or this link) to read all of the posts so far in the Corset Class.

Corset class – Tisket, tasket, notions in your basket

Corset-making notions

The notions you’ll need for corset making may seem unusual, unfamiliar, or hard to find.  A lot of people substitute out less expensive or more readily available alternatives for the “correct” notions with various degrees of success.  If your first corset will be a one-time-wear for a comic book convention (and you have three other costume changes for the weekend), or if you don’t intend to wear it much until you perfect your pattern and skill – these alternatives are fine.  However, just like with a lot of things, using the correct tools for the job will likely give you more consistent and enjoyable results.

After picking out your fabric, you’ll need:

• Waist stay tape – I recommend a 1″ wide twill tape.  This will not be seen, so any colour (that won’t show through your fabric) is fine.
• Double fold bias tape – I recommend the wider width available.  You can also purchase tools to make your own if you can’t find any in the package to match what you are looking for.  This will be seen.
• Grommets & a setting tool – I recommend size 00 2 piece  grommets and a grommet press – however this is out of most budgets (and you’d need to be making a lot of holes to justify the price). Purchase twice what you think you will need plus a few extras.  These will be seen, and are available in a few colours.
• Interfacing  – I like the ease of the iron-on kind, but whatever you are comfortable with works.
• Grommet support washers – optional, however I recommend them.  These will not really be seen.
• Corset lacing – I recommend a nylon round cord.
• Lacing tips – completely optional
• Boning – I recommend waiting until you have your muslin ready before ordering or purchasing your boning, even if your pattern instructions tell you how much of each size you’ll need.
• Boning tape – or you can make your own out of your interlining fabric or coutil.
• Thread – to match your fashion fabric and your lining.  (If it doesn’t match your interlining, that’s totally ok.
• Busk or other front opening – optional but highly recommended.  Like your boning, you should wait until you have your muslin ready before ordering this.
• Decorative trim – optional.  (Lace, braid, piping, appliques, etc)

Ribbons and fabric and cord - oh my! Creative ribbon storage by Sew Many Ways

Sources

Most of these items you can find at your local fabric store, while others you may need to travel to a specialty store or order online to purchase.

Find at your local fabric store:

• Waist stay tape
• Double fold bias tape or the tool to make it
• Thread
• Interfacing
• Decorative trim

You may be able to find these items at your local fabric store, or you may need to go to a specialty store for these:

• Grommets & a setting tool
• Grommet support washers
• Corset lacing

You likely will need to order these items unless you live in a major center:

• Boning
• Boning tape
• Busk
• Lacing tips

Feedback

Hopefully you’re not feeling overwhelmed!  If you need me to explain any of the notions you’ll need, let me know in the comments below!
If you’re  just joining me… click the Corset Class category (on the right hand side, or this link) to read all of the posts so far in the Corset Class.

Corset Class – down to the weave

Shopping for fabric

Fabric photo by Litlnemo

While you’re at the fabric store picking up your pattern (or browsing online) you likely will also be tempted to pick up fabric and notions as well.

For your first corset – stay simple. While of COURSE you want to make a black leather corset with hand-embossed edges and contrast piping… or a gold butterfly brocade corset with hand-beading and a matching ballgown skirt… your very first corset is very likely to be ‘not-quite-perfect’. Plus, you’ll be using a bunch of new tools and techniques. So, with that in mind, keep your fabric choices inexpensive and easy to work with. (Of course, I say this even though my first corset was a brocade, my second was a sheer fabric with flocking, and my third was pvc…. but do as I say, not as I do!

I won’t give you a list of fabrics to choose, but here are some traits you’ll want to look for:

• non-stretch
• firm, even weave
• affordable
• sturdy
• opaque (not see-through)
• washable

… and here are some traits to stay away from:

• Stretchy fabrics
• Sheer fabrics
• Fabrics with a very loose weave or floating threads
• Very expensive fabrics (metallic, silk, etc)
• “Sticky” fabrics (like pvc, latex coated spandex, vinyl, etc)
• Hard-to-sew fabrics (like leather, velvet, fun fur, etc)

I would recommend avoiding these fabrics too, unless you’re feeling especially ambitious:

• Fabrics with an obvious direction or nap (these will just be slightly more challenging – if you’re set on them and have worked with them before, go ahead)
• Fabrics with a large print (if you are fussy and want to match prints)
• Fabrics that are marked “dry-clean only”

Of course, once you get really good at making corsets, all of these not-recommended fabrics can make it back up on your to-do list – but to improve your chances of first-time success, stick with the recommendations to start out.

How much fabric?

I recommend making a corset with a lining, an interlining, and a fashion fabric.

• The fashion fabric is the fabric that everyone will see. This can be something decorative (I’d recommend a pretty printed quilting cotton for your first corset), or something plain if you prefer.
• The lining fabric will only be seen by you (and anyone who sees your corset before or after you wear it) so it can be plain or as wild and wacky as you like. This is a good way of using up fabrics that you might have once loved, and now aren’t as fond of anymore. I generally use a cotton broadcloth for this layer myself.
• Finally there is the interlining. This is the layer that will do all of the hard work, like carrying your boning and your waist stay. Some corset makers will skip the interlining layer and put their support in the lining. Others make four-layer corsets with two layers of interlining. I prefer a three-layer corset myself (I generally consider four layers to be a bit of overkill.). Coutil is recommended for this layer, however I generally use a very sturdy cotton (like a canvas) mostly because I can’t get coutil locally, and having it shipped in gets expensive!

You’ll need to get fabric for all of these layers. Your pattern envelope will instruct you how much fabric to get, but a good rule of thumb is to get the length of your corset. So, if you are doing an underbust corset that goes from under your bust to just below your waist, you’ll need a lot less than someone doing a corset dress! For larger individuals, fabrics that will need to be laid out using a ‘with nap’ direction, or for very narrow fabric, you will need more. For fabrics that are likely to shrink considerably, you should also purchase more fabric to account for this.

For your interlining (or the most sturdy fabric you get, purchase an extra 10 (approx) inches beyond what you need – you’ll be using this for your lacing strip during your fitting.

What about muslin?

One important step in using a new pattern is making a ‘muslin’ (so called, because muslin fabric is affordable) which is just a mock-up of the finished garment in an inexpensive fabric. This way you can work out all the fitting issues and kinks in something cheap, before cutting into something expensive. The problem with a corset, is that you practically have to get 80% of the way complete before you can try the garment on to see if it fits. (Unlike a dress, where you could sew the body and a single sleeve, but omit the facings, hem, collar, etc in order to try it on.) Because of this, we’re going to be working with less expensive fabrics to start out, and will modify the corset from there. This means you might have a totally wearable ‘muslin’ when you’re done if you’re fortunate!

A note on breathable fabrics

A lot of people really believe that natural, breathable fabrics are superior, (cotton, linen, silk, wool) or that at minimum the lining that touches your skin should be a natural fiber (namely cotton). I personally disagree. Corsets are going to be hot simply because they’re so darn tight. Having a breathable fabric that tight against your skin is never going to be as comfortable as a lightweight floaty sundress in an natural fabric. That being said, I personally don’t LIKE a lot of synthetic lining fabrics, and find that the cost of cotton broadcloth is much nicer than the cost of a really nice rayon lining. I also consider how a fabric will sew, how it will wear, and how easy it will be to clean.

In contrast, some people believe that the only thing you can line a garment in, is lining fabric. Others will say that the only correct fabric to use is linen (typically those who do historical corsets) or coutil (a special fabric made especially for corsets). If any of these ‘rules’ ring true for you, and the type of corset you want to make – go for it!

Feedback

We’re off to a good start – what other corset-making topics are you interested in?  Share them in the comments, and I’ll try to do a future post about them!

Corset class – Waist and Penny-Pinching

Picking a pattern

Pattern by Jay D

So the next step once you have your measurements is to pick a pattern.  If you’re extra-ambitious and want to draft your own pattern, there are a few online resources to help you – however most (if not all) assume that you have a fairly decent understanding of pattern drafting before you start.  If you only vaguely know what a ‘square’ refers to, or get flustered at the idea of  “1/2 UB + ease” as an instruction, then you’ll probably want to look at commercially available patterns.

The “big four” have come out with a range of patterns for corsets in the past few years.  Most of these are designed for costume wear, not for regular wear.  This means that although they’re meant to look good, they’re not really meant to fit 100% or last especially long right out of the box (erm.. pattern envelope).  BUT, you can still work with them, just by modifying the instructions (and following the instructions that I’ll have in future tutorials instead!) and adjusting the pattern.  There are also a number of other small, specialty corset patterns out there from smaller companies, but few of these will you be able to buy at your local fabric stores.

When looking at a pattern, consider:

• Your sewing level of experience.  If you are an experienced sewer, you can select from any of the available patterns.  For less experienced sewers you might want to stick with the more established companies because they have a lot of experience writing good, clear instructions and testing their patterns well.
• Reviews from other corset makers/sewers
• Does the pattern work for your size & shape? Starting off with something that is closer to your measurements to begin with will be a better start than finding a corset pattern that looks amazing, but will require a lot of work before you even cut out the pattern.
• Experience with that pattern brand.  Different companies use different body types for their patterns.  You might notice that Vogue patterns for instance always fit wonderfully, while McCalls patterns always seem to have extra fabric, or that Simplicity always fits better than Butterick.  Using a brand that is familiar and you’ve had reliable success with can help with a better fit with fewer adjustments.
• Cost & shipping – yep, here’s the penny-pinching part of this tutorial.  You can likely find patterns from the major companies at your local fabric shop.  Better still, most of the major fabric stores have sales on patterns from time to time.  Instead of spending the 15-25$ list price for the pattern, you might be able to get it as cheaply as $1.99 if you can find a really good sale!  In contrast, some patterns are only available through mail-order, where the cost is never (or certainly rarely) discounted, and you’ll need to pay shipping (and perhaps duty) as well.  With that being said, I’d personally recommend picking the right pattern first, and considering cost second.

Non-commercial patterns

If you want something designed especially to fit YOU, there are alternatives to commercial patterns or drafting the pattern yourself.  You can also hire someone to draft the pattern for you.  For this you’ll want to find someone who has a lot of experience drafting patterns for a variety of body types (or at least body types that resemble your own).  Experience drafting corsets is another requirement too!  Keep in mind that with this alternative you likely will not receive ANY instructions for sewing, and the pattern might not even have seam allowance on it.

Since the pattern will be untested, you can still assume that you may need to do minor modifications, just as if you were working from a commercial pattern.  Generally unless you ask otherwise, this will be a basic corset pattern – if you want to do fancy things like adding straps, buckles, etc, you’ll need to do those yourself, or discuss your needs with the pattern drafter.

The cost on this will be substantially higher than going out and picking a corset pattern off the shelf, since the draftsperson is devoting this entire project just to you.  Discuss with the individual the cost before hand, keeping in mind that you are paying for their time and materials, but also their training, skill, and experience.

A note on using commercial patterns for profit

I’ve heard a lot of people comment that they intend to purchase a pattern, and when they get really good at making corsets, that they intend to make additional corsets to sell at fairs, online, or to their friends.  Please remember that most commercial patterns are for individual domestic use only.  Using a commercial pattern without permission of the publisher is a violation of the publisher’s copyright.  If you believe your skills are that good, in my opinion, you should be drafting your own patterns from scratch, or hiring yourself out as a seamstress.  (Where someone else buys the pattern for you to use to make a corset for him/her, and him/her alone.)

Feedback

How are things going so far?  Are you feeling inspired?  Let me know in the comments section below!

Corset class – Keep it tight!

Measurements

So now that you know what style of corset you want to make, now it’s time to get out the measuring tape.

1. Hand it to someone you love who can keep a secret.
2. Have a drink.
3. Now strip to your undergarments and start being brutally honest.

Measuring tape photo by BL Murch

You want to pick that friend who can always discreetly tell you when you have spinach between your teeth – the one who is honest without being judgmental.  He or she will take your measurements (preferably without telling you the numbers!) and write them down for you.  This isn’t really something you can effectively do on your own, and you do not want to fudge the numbers here at all. Think of it like your taxes… the real numbers might be frustrating, but it’s better than the consequences if you lie!

(I don’t really endorse having a drink, but if you’re of legal age, it’s not a half-bad idea!)

Start by tying a ribbon or twill tape or yarn around your waist; really whatever you have on hand that won’t move around and isn’t too wide.  Bend forwards and backwards, side to side, and where it settles we’re going to call your waist, even if it’s not where you normally wear a waistband.  It very likely will be around your belly button. 

You’ll need the following circumference measurements:

• Waist – right over top of the ribbon you’ve tied
• Hip – fullest part of your hip
• High hip – where you want your corset to sit
• Under bust – under your bust.  That one’s a gimme.
• Bust – fullest part of your bust
• High bust – where you want your corset to end
• Tight waist – do this one last, you’ll want to tighten up that measuring tape as tightly as you think you can handle.

Next you’ll need the following length measurements:

• High bust to bust – at front, side, and back.
• Bust to under bust – at front, side, and back.
• Under bust to waist – at front, side, and back.
• Waist to high hip – at front, side, and back.
• Hip to high hip – at front, side, and back.
• Total length (high bust to high hip) – at front, side, and back.

These measurements assume you’re doing an overbust Victorian corset, if you are planning on a cincher, underbust, corset dress or other styles, you may need more or fewer measurements.

If you find it hard to remember where you measured to – add additional ribbons, or even sticky dots – whatever will help give you accurate measurements.

In doing all of these measurements, does it start to make sense why often off-the-rack corsets (where you order or purchase by waist size or bust size) often don’t fit you perfectly?

Body type

Jessica Rabbit from the Comic Art Gallery

There are some individuals who can aim for a 4-5″ waist reduction, while others feel lucky if they can get 2″ and others can brag about a 8-10″ difference between their corseted and corseted waist measurements.  Let’s ungraciously call this the ‘squish factor’ – some of us are just a lot squishier than others!  When you measure your waist and your tight waist, you’ll get an idea of what you can handle – but keep in mind if this is your first corset, you probably don’t want to go too tight for too long right away.  Think of it like wearing a pair of jeans that really is far too small for you.  Muffin-top aside, you know that queasy, uncomfortable, gross feeling you get? You don’t want to have that with your first corset!

With that in mind, even if your tight waist measurement is swoon-worthy, that doesn’t mean you’ll necessarily want to use that number – you might want to find one closer to your natural waist.

If you have worn corsets frequently, put on your favorite, and measure your waist difference – you might find even then that the measurement is not that different!  (Or it might be, your mileage may vary!)

The other consideration for body type is simply the way our bodies put on weight.  While some individuals may have weight equally proportioned across their bodies, others may carry a lot of weight in their midsections or hips, or chest.  Corsets can ‘redistribute’ your natural shape a bit, but they’re not likely to turn an overweight pear-shaped individual into Jessica Rabbit.  Love what you’ve got, and work with it – not against it!

Feedback

Let me know what you think so far in the comments below!