Another cameo

Cameos are another thing I <3 – traditional or the updated skeleton/octopus/bat ones that I’ve acquired and worked with recently.  I had this cameo pendant (from Michael’s) for a while, and while doing my crafty-ness I thought that I would put it together with some chain and black pearls that I had in my ‘stash’ (also from Michaels).  The problem – the length of the chain was just too long for one strand (without a lot wasted – plus a bit too skimpy for the large pendant) and too short for two strands.  So, I got out the jewellery pliers, and started playing around with the connections.  I actually had to open up the chain to get the pendant on anyways (between the pearls) since the pendant bail is smaller than the pearl…

Cameo pendant

From there I attached the second piece of chain up along the sides of the supporting chain – but with enough excess so that the chain will droop slightly – not unlike my Tudor-meets-Victorian necklace that I made a while back.

I haven’t had the chance to wear this yet.. but I think it will work nicely with my Steampunk-inspired outfits!

Black bustle

Going through old photos reminds me of all the projects that I actually HAVE completed – but never got around to posting!  I actually made this black bustle before the Sari Fabric Bustle that I posted (almost a year ago!) but I never got around to posting this one!

Black bustle

The fabric is just plain black cotton broadcloth, and I used black twill tape and drapery rings to support the cording to create the bustled effect.  This means that I can undo the cording to wash the bustle, as well as re-loop it to create potentially different effects… The sides and hem are all trimmed with wide black lace, and the bustle is pleated into a waistband that has trouser hooks at a few places to make it a little bit adjustable.

Inside of the bustle – I’ve used white cord on the lower tier here, but then I traded that off for black twill tape like the top tier so it would be a bit more discreet, on the off chance it might be seen.

The one problem I had with this bustle (or rather, not a problem, just something I did differently with the sari fabric bustle) was that it lacks a lot of “poof”.  It isn’t lined at all (which I’m ok with… I don’t mind the cording/rings being ‘visible’ – since it will always be ‘behind me’ and not actually visible to anyone when I’m wearing the garment.) but if it were, there might be more body to the garment. It’s ok though – there’s a time for big bustles, and a time to just use what nature (and ice cream) gave you…

Close up of the rings creating the bustle.

I also made a draped front apron which I didn’t photograph.  I like it well enough, but it doesn’t photograph off the body well.

Cut! – Portrait of a Lady – Isabel

The poster, click for the full version

Not far from the tiny little dress worn by petite Renee (Beatrix Potter), was a dress worn by tall, statuesque Nicole Kidman in the Cut! exhibit.  It was kind of interesting to see the contrast between the two costumes, since on-screen I can’t say I’ve ever really noticed the difference.  (Mind you, I’ve only watched about 10 minutes of Cold Mountain, (a movie they were both in) and wasn’t watching for that either…)

So, next up in my photo-spread of costumes from the Cut! exhibit is from The Portrait of a Lady (1996).  I feel that I should have seen this movie, but, looking at the trailer, it doesn’t look a bit familiar, so I guess I haven’t!  Not surprizing; if you have noticed from my previous posts about costumes from the Cut! exhibit, there are a LOT of movies – even costume dramas- that I haven’t seen!

Side view of Isabel's costume from Portrait of a Lady

The poster describes the movie and the costume as (click the poster above for a larger photo):

“The Portrait of a Lady (1996)

A dramatic Victorian tale of betrayal based on the novel by Henry James

Set in Europe, 1880s

…

Nicole Kidman as Isabel Archer

In this film the costume designer shows us many beautiful an evocative outfits that follow Isabel Archer’s Journey of self discovery.  This white gown with its pinkish hue and pearl bead embroidery is a fine example of the layers of detail and the fine fabrics that reflect Isabel’s inheritance and new-found wealth.  The beaded front panel of this skirt is an original piece from a time when such an elaborate panel would have been made up and sold separately to have a dress created around it.  This panel was four inches too short for Nicole Kidman, so it was lengthened with fabric inserted at the waist which is covered by the jacket.”

Isabel's costume from Portrait of a Lady

A beautiful shot of the back of the ‘jacket’, showing the seaming to go from shoulders to an amazingly narrow waist.  While the lace works on the back collar because of the front of the bodice, I have to say I don’t care for the bow at all!  I imagine that the designer saw Nicole with her hair up for this gown, because it would be a huge fuss to have her hair down with this silly bow at the back!

In this photo I can also see the shoulder seam shifted far back – this could just be a design/fit solution for a curved shoulder blade, or it could actually be a shifted shoulder seam.  Without seeing the top of the shoulder, it’s hard to say.

I’d also point out the horizontal waist seam in the side panel of the jacket as well.  All of the other panels are long without the horizontal interruption, which makes me wonder why this line is here.  It could simply be a matter of piecing fabric… since there doesn’t seem to be a design reason for it.

Lastly, I’d like to point out the gathering on the sleeve, above the cuff.  Very pretty….

Isabel's costume from Portrait of a Lady

The lower part of the back of the outfit, lots of lace, trim, ribbons, flowers.. etc.. wow.

Isabel's costume from Portrait of a Lady

Aaother shot heading down the back of the dress.

Isabel's costume from Portrait of a Lady

So finally the front… the false waistcoat in what looked a lot like wide-wale peach corduroy, false buttons, lace and ribbon collar, ruched trim… etc etc etc.  I have the sneaking suspicion that the closure is hooks and eyes under the false buttons.  There don’t appear to be any button holes, so that’s what would make the most sense to me.  In this photo you can also see the top of that pearl beaded panel for the skirt.

Isabel's costume from Portrait of a Lady

Here’s a close up on those false buttons, the peach corduroy (or maybe it’s a figured velvet in stripes?  Up close it looks more like velvet than corduroy…), the lack of buttonholes, and the pearl beading.  No real conclusive proof of a hook and eye front closure though.  However that ever-so-slight gap at the very top of the photo makes it look as though this certainly is where the opening is.

Isabel's costume from Portrait of a Lady

The ruching from the ‘jacket’ front continues down the length of the dress to the floor, where it meets more trim.  Here you can see the full length of that pearl beaded panel.

Isabel's costume from Portrait of a Lady

Closer shot of the elaborate trim, pleating and ribbons on the hem of the dress.

Isabel's costume from Portrait of a Lady

Finally a  close up of the sleeve that I pointed out earlier.  What confuses me is that little hint of silver glittery ribbon/elastic at the wrist.  It really did look like wide elastic (like from elastic belts from the 1980s) and colour and fabric-wise it didn’t really seem to suit the rest of the outfit.  However, I do love that gathering!

The Costumer’s Guide doesn’t have a write up for this costume itself, nor any photos that I could see when I went to look – other than this movie still.  However there are a number of other costumes from the movie that have many photos – and many of them look incredible!  This looks like it might be a great movie to watch on DVD, pause button at the ready!  For more screen captures check out Period Movie Caps.

So… is this dress inspiring?  More so than the Beatrix Potter dress for me, certainly!

Cut! – Miss Potter – Beatrix Potter

Beatrix Potter's costume

Well the Cut! exhibit certainly gave me a lot of blog-fodder, so here’s another costume – this time from Miss Potter, a movie (that I frankly never heard of – which isn’t a terrible thing, since I’m not a big movie fan anyways…) about Beatrix Potter.

Poster for the costume - click for full version

The costume description poster (click for a larger view) describes the movie as:

“Miss Potter (2006)

The story of Beatrix Potter, author of the best-selling children’s book ‘ The tale of Peter Rabbit’, and her struggle for love, happiness and success.

Set in London, 1870′s

…

The day ensemble consists of a ruched beige silk bustled skirt with lace trim and a high-necked jacket with ore ruching and lace trim as well as a crocheted-covered buttons.”

Beatrix Potter's costume

I suppose either I’m not in an inspired mood at the moment, or the costume didn’t strike me as particularly inspiring, because I don’t really have much to say about this one…  I don’t think that the ruching is all that attractive (although on tiny little Renee Zellweger perhaps it would be ok!) so it’s not an element I’d want to repeat.  The colour is bland and boring, the poofs and lace seem dowdy with the cut of the outfit overall, the only thing that I find even mildly interesting is the shape of the skirt – though it looks a bit off where the front part meets the back at the side seam…

Beatrix Potter's costume

Well, the buttons are kind of nice I suppose, and I do like the way the front fullness is gathered with the lines of ruching – though again, not something I would want to reproduce to the extent done here.

Beatrix Potter's costume

Pst… what is that last button doing down there – there isn’t even a buttonhole…

Beatrix Potter's costume

Why is the back fabric all pleated at the shoulders?  The ruching here isn’t just controlling the fabric, they’ve actually added in additional fabric.  Not really attractive to me…

Beatrix Potter's costume

Ruching! Puffs! Lace!

Beatrix Potter's costume

Again, a bit overdone for me… too much fabric without enough of an impact.

Ok.. so if you see something I don’t in this costume, let me know in the comments below.  Maybe there’s a context that since I haven’t seen the movie I’m not aware of? Perhaps I’m just in an uninspired mood!

Cut! – Phantom of the Opera – Carlotta

Costume poster

The Phantom of the Opera from 2004 is set in Paris in 1870. The costume shown here is from the character Carlotta, played by Minnie Driver. The costume is described in the poster to the left. (Click for a larger version.)

“There was an obvious desire to create a larger than life look in the costumes for this film and this is seen especially in the costumes made for Minnie Driver. The eye is drawn to this striking day ensemble by the bright green grosgrain overdress with striped shot silk lining and cuffs. The mock waistcoat with enamelled buttons is edged in dark red velvet that matches a large bow at the back. The skirt is of warp printed silk, maroon with orange, pink, and yellow flowers.”

Carlotta's gown

I didn’t really like this costume in person, though looking at the photos of it, it’s growing on me a little bit. The part I don’t really like is the colour combination for starters, and the colour green in general. I also don’t really like the floral silk – the colours or the print either. However what I do like about this costume is the overall shape, and the incredible detail put into the dress.

Carlotta's gown

I really love the way that this bodice is cut – there is so much shape and so much detail in this bodice. I like the false ‘tabs’ which hold back the lapel for starters, and all of the shaping at the waist, bringing in all the fullness of the bust, narrowing the waist, and then flaring back out all of that fabric for the hips/skirt.

Carlotta's gown

Above is another shot of the bodice, showing off the wonderful cut at the waist. There are also horizontal lines of fullness at the waist as well, drawing back to the bustle – I’m not sure if this was a fit issue or if this is part of the design itself.

Carlotta's gown

The false waistcoat has dramatic points at the hem. I really love the lush velvet for this part of the garment. The warp-painted silk has a similar ‘soft’ appearance because of the warp-painting, which produces soft figures, rather than precise or detailed patterns.

Carlotta's gown

On the topic of the details of the gown, I love the striped lining of the cuff, the way the sleeve is lined with the same red velvet as the waistcoat, and then the fluffy white lace sleeve. So feminine! Again though, still hating the green!

Carlotta's gown

Here’s an alternate view of the cuff showing the tab, which appears to hold the cuff back, and still lets the edges of the cuff fall forward to show off the beautiful lining.

Carlotta's gown

The incredible back of the dress rivals the beautifully cut front. Again, I hate the green and the colour combination, but isn’t this lovely otherwise? Look at the way the bodice is cut to make the waist appear so narrow with the angled lines from the shoulders down into the waist center back.

I love the billowy bustle too, and the way the back drapes, showing off the striped lining. I don’t love how in this photo the striped lining really just looks purple – in the photo of the cuff you can see that it’s really more of a burgundy and silver-ish stripe – but from the distance it turns into something more light purple…

I also really love how the dark red velvet emerges in the bustle as well, bringing that colour to the back rather than just having it in the front. Mind you, I also just really love red velvet!

Carlotta's gown

Again more detail!  There’s a trim inside the skirt of box-pleated burgundy.  Based on the way that this hangs, I think it’s actually on an underskirt, rather than attached to the warp-painted silk.

Carlotta's gown

Side shot of the gown, showing off how HUGE that bustle is compared to the bodice of the dress.

Carlotta's gown

Close up of the side-back, showing the seams in the bodice back, and the red velvet bow sitting above the billowy bustle.

Carlotta's gown

Close up of the red velvet bow above the bustle.

Carlotta's gown

Another side shot of the fabulous bustle!

The big poofy pink confection worn by the Christine character was also in the Cut! show, but I didn’t like it at all, so didn’t get any photos.

So, what do you think?  Let me know in the comments below!  I think this would be amazing to recreate in a Steampunk fancy dress costume – just with better colours!

Have I mentioned recently how much I love….

Google Books?

General history

Image from Google Books. Linked from source, click for reference.

Accessories of Dress: An Illustrated Encyclopedia By Katherine Morris Lester, Bess Viola Oerke, Helen Westermann

This book has a wide variety of accessories from early history until modern times – and as luck would have it, the first part of the book that Google Books offers is on hats – both men’s and women’s hats, from early history until 1930 (when the copyright laws prevent them from showing more).  Masks, wigs, collars, shawls and more are included in the book itself, though the Google Books reference only includes the hat section.  Very fortunate for me, since that’s what I’m specifically interested in right now!

There are some very clear illustrations, however not a ~lot~ on each style… still enough to give a good impression, and a good jumping off point for further research on historical costume.
Another book with a general historial theme, although this one specifically about hats is Hats: a history of fashion in headwear By Hilda Amphlett. Again, this one has sketches of millinery from the 11th century until the 20th century.

Victorian & Edwardian

Image from Google Books. Linked from source, click for resource

Victorian fashions and costumes from Harper’s bazar, 1867-1898 By Stella Blum

A really interesting look at fashion plates from old magazines.  There are also illustrations specifically of hats, jewelry, shawls, parasols and other items.  I would love to have (and have the ROOM to have) these sorts of resource books just for reference when costuming… but checking out the pages that Google Books has available for the time being is the next best thing!

A related reference book with fashion plates is Victorian and Edwardian fashions from “La Mode Illustrée By JoAnne Olian, also available in part on Google Books.

Next up, patterns – again taken (I imagine) from magazines from the Victorian era Authentic Victorian Fashion Patterns: A Complete Lady’s Wardrobe By Kristina Harris.  I’ve seen this sort of thing before, and there are a bunch of caveats when using these for actual pattern-making… 1) historic clothing fits differently than modern clothing 2) the patterns aren’t multi-sized, so you need some idea of grading for your size. 3) patterns are rarely included for facings, cuffs, etc.  With those caveats, seeing the more detailed patterns is a great way to see how different shapes were made, and then translate that into original drafts.  There is another book on Google Books that I found: Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques  By Kristina Harris however it mostly shows hand-sewing techniques, and although there might be more to the book…. I wasn’t nearly so excited as I was about the others.

Edwardian, Regency & the Teens

Again, from Google Books - click away!

Everyday fashions, 1909-1920, as pictured in Sears catalogs By JoAnne Olian

More actual historic illustrations – this time from 1909-1920.  I love seeing the actual catalogue illustrations of the hats from earlier in the period – how big those hats were!

For more fashion plates (with lots of descriptive information) this time from the Regency era, they also have Ackermann’s costume plates: women’s fashions in England, 1818-1828 By Stella Blum, Rudolph Ackermann

But alas…

There’s also a book listed, with no preview at all – that I’m really curious to see more of…. Practical millinery lessons by Julia Bottomley

Oh, but there’s also…

On the topic of Google Books – although Google Books specifically didn’t have the following books, they were available through the Hathi Trust Digital Library. Millinery, by Charlotte Rankin Aiken.

From the University of Wisconsin library, there is The art of millinery: a complete series of practical lessons for the artiste and the amateur by Anna Ben Yusuf, which, I will admit I didn’t look too much at – I found it difficult to scroll through all the pages quickly to scan it… so I’m noting it for another time!

There is also Your millinery by Winifred Reiser at the Wisconsin library as well, which I also didn’t actually go through.  :(

The Library of Congress has a full digital version of A complete course in millinery  by Julia Bottomley, & Emma Maxwell Burke, which looks really interesting as well. I skimmed through this one, but think it’s worth a read later on as well. There is also a copy of Home millinery course by National Millinery Company, which covers similar material, but is less extensive.

Millinery wish-list

I’ve made these lists before, and here’s another one – though this one is specific to millinery!

I was making this list, remaking this list, and remaking it again… and thus far I’m organizing it by era represented… in a round-about way at least.  I imagine that this list might become a ‘work-in-progress’ even after I publish it, because I can imagine myself having more and more ideas as time goes by.

Georgian hats

Screenshot from The Brotherhood of the Wolf from the Costumer's Guide.

Tricorn hat

I made a few mini-tricorn facinator hats, but I would like to make a full-sized version as well.  I can’t quite figure if I want something highly decorated (like with a giant bird or a sailboat) or if I want to keep it fairly simple – just black with some trim or something.  I also can’t quite figure if I want it in wool (once we’re there with the class that is) or if I want one in fabric to go with a different outfit or something…

Obviously, this part of the wish list is not particularly well thought out yet. For the time being my reference photo is from a movie called The Brotherhood of the Wolf (which I’ve never actually seen as far as I know…)  which is a wool felt (I imagine) tricorn with red fringe-like trim on the brim edge and three metal decorations just on the left hand side.  (There’s another screenshot showing both sides, and it’s only on the left.)

Status  - Early November – blocked buckram crown

Mini Tricorn

Although I’ve made the mini tricorn hats already, I still have them in mind – likely due to just finishing watching Marie Antoinette!  Like the ones in the movie I’m thinking candy colours, lots of trim…

Screenshot from Marie Antoinette

In the movie, the majority of the ones I saw are domed tops, with a few flat tops that I noticed as well.  Since I’m unlikely to find a block the right size for a domed top mini tricorn, a flat top one will likely have to do!  In terms of size itself, I was reading an article about mini hats, suggesting that 3/4 size is perhaps more flattering and interesting than the “doll” size that is common with the minis.  This means that 18″ crown would be ideal… which I might actually find in a domed block… We’ll have to see!

My reference photo is from Marie Antoinette – from the Costumer`s Guide website.   This hone has trim on the underside of the brim, and a rosette made out of loops of the same trim on the left side.  There`s also a golden braid on the crown band, with a small gold pin in the shape of a star in the centre front. There`s also a grey ostrich feather in the center back – which isn`t as visible in this screenshot, but is in the side shot.

Screenshot from Marie Antoinette

In this side shot, (also from The Costumer`s Guide) shows the ostrich feather a bit better, and more importantly, it shows the size, and proportion of the hat – along with how it`s worn, perched very far forward on the  head, with the lovely curls behind.   The hat from the Bright Pink Gown  from Marie Antoinette also seems to be a flat-top small tricorn as well.

Status - early November, blocked buckram crown, covered crown and crown lining, cut out brim.  Mid-November, completed hats, waiting for further embellishment.

Dinner plate

Promo Still from Marie Antoinette

Such a funny name, I know… but every time I look at this style of hat, all I can think of is a dinner plate!  The best guess I have for the real name is a porkpie, but I don`t think that`s really right either…

Once again I`m referencing Marie Antoinette – this shot from the Costumer`s Guide  as well.   In this shot the title character, as well as the woman in the background left are both wearing the style I have in mind. I think the one on the right is a bit different, but the basic idea is the same: a small hat worn very forward on the head, with a small flat-top crown with a very short band and a moderate brim.

Promo still from Marie Antoinette

Another shot from Marie Antoinette has more of these hats – though Marie Antoinette`s has a much taller brim – the one in the background (pink) is more like what I have in mind I think.

The Ball-Jointed Doll magazine online also has a tutorial for a ‘dinner plate’ style of hat, that they call a Marie Antoinette hat.  It is, of course, made of card and glue, but I found the tutorial really charming nonetheless! (And, btw… I found the article via a search for hats… not a search for doll things..hehe)

Mostly I want to make the hat for the `ship`hat below…
Status - Early November – Crown band and tip cut out of buckram and assembled.  Still need to cover, cut out brim, etc.  Mid-November, crown is mostly covered.  Kind of stagnating on this one.

Marie Antoinette ‘ship’ hat

Hat by Topsy Turvy designs

I have seen a few hats out there that have obviously been inspired by Marie Antoinette’s “ship” hat - Topsy turvy is one of them, and this one is based on the aforementioned `dinner plate`hat.

From the (terribly little) research I did – the woman who wore the `ship`was actually a contemporary of Marie Antoinette – not actually M.A. herself – but she was known for putting all sorts of crazy things in her wigs, so it`s not completely out of the realm of possibilities…

Hat from Paris Atelier's blog post about Modern Marie

Hey Sailor  also does some `ship`hats.  Hers are small tricorns as far as I can see, though I can’t see much detail in the fashion shots.There’s a fairly fabulous costume up on craftster worth a look too…  There actually seem to be a number of interpretations of this idea, which makes my interest kind of wane a little bit – although it certainly means there are probably more resources available!

Screenshot from the Sofia Coppola movie Marie Antoinette

From the Marie Antoinette movie, there’s a scene where she basically has the ship just perched into her wig – but I think I really want it to be on a hat instead… The movie had a LOT of mini-tricorn hats, tricorn hats, and ‘dinner-plate’ (porkpie?) hats.

Beautiful "ghost ship" facinator hat from Professor Maelstromme's Steam Lab

I’ve already picked up the lightweight clay to make the hull of the ship though, and I’m thinking of white silk for the sails.  I just need to think a little more about the masts and other elements.  I’m still kind of half-hoping to find something in a toy or model store (that isn’t hundreds of dollars like the models I’ve already seen!) to help me avoid the bulk of the work….

Status - Nothing so far

Regency-inspired hats

The Regency era was a very short period of time after the Georgian period but before  the Victorian era.  From Beau Brummel .com the Regency period  came “after the Georgian time of powdered wigs and gaudy satins, but before the Victorian  time of dull, straitlaced staidness. Some say that when Victoria took the throne, she was fed up with the loose  morals and hedonistic behavior which had characterized the Regency. The Regency Era, generally c1790-1820, was  indeed a time of undiluted pleasure-seeking and over-indulgence.”  In 1811  King George III (the “mad” king) was deemed unfit to rule England and his son ruled as his proxy as Prince Regent until 1820.

Straw bonnet

Straw bonnets existed in both the Regency and Victorian eras, however I was reading a website that suggested that the Regency ones were a little smaller and more restrained.  I have yet to do the research to back this up… but it felt appropriate to put this hat style in here all the same…

Bonnet from Lily of the Valley designs - gorgeous!

I first thought about making this style because of one of mum’s doll books – there’s a pattern for one in one of the books, and of all the other hats, it somehow appealed to me.  I also love the Elegant Gothic Lolita/etc fashions using the bonnets (albeit often in velvet rather than straw) and I then found a little tutorial on the Lily of the Valley blog (a Mori (forest) – girl/EGL/etc designer) for a straw Spoon Bonnet.

This bonnet has basically a pillbox frame for the crown, and then a shaped straw brim, which is possibly the nicest version of this that I’ve seen.  This was obviously a LOT more work than just taking a straw hat and cutting it apart and gluing on some trim, and I really respect the work she’s put into it.

Bonnet from the EGL hat competition.

In her post, she also refers to the contest she entered this hat into, and that led me to this hat from the EGL LiveJournal group.  I don’t love the colours, but I love the method of trimming this hat – both inside and outside of the brim.  I would really like to do something similar to this with a bonnet (although I really do prefer it lined with the white lace rather than the self-fabric.

Stovepipe bonnet from the Oregon Regency Society

I also really like the stovepipe bonnets shown on the Oregon Regency Society page – there are some beautiful versions – though I think that the stovepipe might be a bit TOO tall for me – a bit too costume for my liking.  (Not that I have ANY problem with costume… but I’m thinking I want something a bit more wearable…)

So.. really the biggest question here is if I want it to be a straw hat… or if I want it to be a buckram hat, covered in fabric.   Since we do have a straw portion of our class coming up, and I don’t really have any other ideas for straws, it might be really nice to try this in straw….

There is also the soft-poke bonnet, where the crown is replaced/covered with a puffy pillow of poofy fabric – but I’m not as attracted to this style right now….

Status – nothing so far

Victorian style hats

Of course, with my desire for more things Steampunk, and my love of Victorian and Neo-Victorian fashion.. I can’t ignore Victorian-influenced hats in my wish list!

Mini Victorian Riding Hat

Victorian mini riding hat from Ms. Purdy's

Along with the mini (almost 3/4) Tricorn, I think that the same form would make for a really nice mini riding hat as well.  Basically I think it will take on a Derby shape, but I foresee it being highly embellished.  I found a photo of something similar to what I have in mind on the Ms Purdy hat site, in green.  However, the photo isn’t really good for showing how the hat is constructed, so there’s also this brown version worth taking a look at just to see how the actual hat looks beneath all of the decoration.

Brown version from Ms Purdy's. Click for larger version

Status - buckram blocked

Curved riding top hat

Another style I’m interested in is a top hat with a very high “curve”.  I’ve seen this style repeatedly from one of the milliners I follow, and an example can be seen here.  That being said, I am not putting this style at the top of my list at all.

Edwardian Hat

Screenshot from the movie Titanic

Portrait/cartweel brimmed hat

Basically a hat with a huge brim.  The instructor said that everyone will probably want to do something with a large brim, so she’s ready for us… haha.  She mentioned that these large brims often require a wire framework as well – that often just buckram can’t support the weight/shape of a wide brim.  Unfortunately, we haven’t gotten there yet to get more information about how wide is ‘wide’ and how to create that wire framework.

I’m thinking of something along the lines of the hat Rose wore while boarding the Titanic (erm.. in the movie…) or photos I’ve seen of Audrey Hepburn from My Fair Lady (as Eliza Doolittle). (Another movie I’ve never seen…)

I’m also thinking of this with a very ‘poofy’ crown as well, though I haven’t really seen much that speaks to me yet as an example.
Status: Mid November –  I’ve made the base of the crown, and have wired the brim so far.

1920′s hat

Cloche

Angelina Jolie in a cute cloche

One of the hats we’ll be making in class (remember, this is a scheduled post!) is a cloche, presumably in felt.  I wasn’t too thrilled about making a cloche, since again, I don’t know if it will be something that’s flattering to my face.  To the left is a shot of Angelina Jolie from the movie The Changeling. The shot is from the Beauty Cent website.   I don’t know if I have ever actually worn a cloche – they seem very fitted, and it’s possible that any I’ve ever tried have been too small…

So, when our instructor said that we would be doing a cloche, I was somewhat uninspired – but that was until I wandered onto the BJD Magazine blog.  (Ball Jointed Doll)  I don’t even remember how I found myself on the website, but there was a tutorial for a cloche for dolls – but really it’s the shape that I love, and the embellishment!  I am not entirely sure how I can translate some of these embellishments to human-size, but I’m a lot more inspired now!  I love the oversized look of the cloche too – much less form-fitting – and thus I like the shape a lot better.

Ball-Jointed Doll in a cloche

Another cloche example

Even the traditional cloche shapes, embellished in the same way, I really like!  I think the really large flow-y bell would also be much more flattering than the typical head-hugging style.

• Doll-size tutorial
• Creator profile

There are also a few examples of nice cloches on the Victorian Trading company website.

• White cloche with black lace trim
• Dark wool cloche (black? green?) with red velvet ribbon.  I like the way the brim is on this, with the little cut out.

Status - haven’t started in any way yet.

Glamourous 1940s asymmetrical hat

Vogue photo from The Fedora Lounge

Years ago Vogue patterns came out with patterns for 1940′s style hats, and I loved them.  Unfortunately, without access (at that time) to real wool felt, nor the skill to steam and shape them – I pretty much gave up on the idea.  Hopefully throughout the class though I’ll be able to create something in this vein… really though at this point I have no ideas.

Status: nothing so far

1950′s Pillbox hats

I’m not actually a huge fan of pillbox hats, but since this is the first style we’ve explored in class, I’ve begun thinking of ways to adapt the style that would work for me. I’ve also thought about how the basic construction could be adapted for different styles.

Pillbox Facinator

mini pillbox from Kaboodle

I think it would be interesting to make a mini-pillbox facinator like this one.  I really like the buttons/buttonholes on this one too!

Another cool style is from Topsy Turvy Designs.

This Next also has a mini pillbox, but it’s been titled incorrectly.

Status: I have a pre-made hat form that I might use for this instead of making my own, though I haven’t gone much further.

Shaped Pillbox

It might not be really a pillbox when I’m done with it – but the basic construction is what I have in mind rather than the shape.

I can’t find any photos of what I have in mind yet, but it’s more of a facinator than a hat (it will need a clip or a comb to stay in place I think) but I have something in my head and the best description I can think of is “shaped pillbox”… for now.

Status: Mid-November… DONE! whoohoo!  I’ll have posts soon!

Modern interpretations

Feminine Top Hat

Bridal top hat from Suite 101

Another style that interests me is doing a modern, feminine interpretation of the classic top hat.  I have a few mini-top hat facinators (one I made, two I bought) but all are black.  Black is very wearable of course, but I keep thinking that something more colourful might be interesting as well.  I also have one (possibly vintage – I purchased it in a vintage clothing shop) men’s top hat. (Also in classic black.)  However, while going through the web, I found this photo to the left of a white top hat with netting/veiling, lots of flowers, and an asymmetrically shaped brim.  Lovely!

While I don’t think I want anything so bridal…I really do love the shape, the size, the adornments… everything except the colour! I can really see this in a wine or burgundy… maybe even a navy blue…

From the Victorian Trading company;

• Similar hat in mauve
• Another similar hat in black

Status: nothing so far

Elegant Gothic Lolita mini-crown

MIni Crowns from the Enfant de Peche blog.

It’s been on my wish list for a while, but I’d also really like to make a mini-crown.  I don’t know who made these ones, but I found them on the Enfant de Peche blog. I don’t know if I can really even count these as hats… but let’s just roll with it anyways!

I love these ones in leather, and I saw one on Style Hive with fur trim at the bottom that I liked as well (the fur trim, not necessarily the whole crown).

Funny enough, I saw some REALLY similar as Xmas ornaments not too long ago.. (But I didn’t get them, because they were made really cheaply, and were a bit too small.)

Status: nothing so far

British eras
Georgian era	c.1714-1830
Regency era	c.1811-1820
Victorian era	c.1837-1901
Edwardian era	c.1901-1910
WW I	1914-1918
Interwar period	1918-1939
World War II	1939-1945

Yep… sometimes the eras overlap…