Snow White and the Huntsman

Snow White is one of my favorite fairy tales (and beauty idol – take that Linda!) so I was curious upon first hearing that Kristin Stewart (Twilight) was up against Emily Browning (from Lemony Snicket’s A Series of Unfortunate Events) for the title role in a new movie called Snow White and the Huntsman.

Well, I just caught the trailer the other day, and it looks like Kristin won the role. Charlize Theron as the queen is an interesting choice too. Honestly, I can’t say either would be box office draws for me personally, though the movie does look lush and beautiful in the trailer, and is produced by the same guy who did Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland. The movie is set to come out June 1, 2012 (and it’s apparently going to be another trilogy…) – here’s hoping that as time progresses some new costume photos will be released… (though with two male leads, two female leads, and a plethora of battle scenes, I have the feeling that this might NOT be a costumer’s dream… despite the work of Colleen Atwood.)  Just judging by the trailer alone, I don’t see the purpose of this being a trilogy, but who knows what might happen between now and June 1.  (Ei: is perhaps the footage available now only a teaser, and not really representative of the movie in general?)

Female costume run down, just from the trailer:

Golden dress, White gown, Fur coat. Click for larger version

Queen: Gold dress

Seen when sucking the life-force from the woman at 0:23, talking to her mirror 0:53,

The dress is gold, and looks like a vaguely leather-look-pattern – probably a heat-set textured fabric.  The gown has a square neckline, also in gold, with thin, sheer ribbon on the inside.  The gold neckline looks somewhat like velvet, or perhaps a sheer gold over another solid gold fabric; something with dimension.  There’s a diamond pattern (cut velvet? small beads?)  The sheer fabric seems to be pleated, and there’s a line of small beads running between the ‘velvet’ and the sheer.  The center of the length of the ribbon is beaded. She wears large tapered oval earrings that dangle, a choker necklace and a long pendant necklace.  The gown appears to be fairly straight cut in the skirt, but perhaps princess seamed, because the scale pattern is a bit distorted over the breast.  In a full-length side view it shows she also has a long cloak on, likely something that originates from the shoulder seam, since there isn’t any separate front to the cloak in the front view.

Queen: White medieval gown

Seen when she’s stabbing someone in bed at 0:35

White crinkled dress with a cinched waist and long sleeves.  The sleeves are tight at the bicep, and then exceptionally full below, hanging down, kimono-style. She wears a thin crown/tiara, and the bodice appears to be heavily embroidered with gold.  This costume looks really interesting – though I’m curious to see more of what the front bodice area looks like!

Queen: Fur coat

Shown in the forest at 1:14

Medium brown fur coat with long sleeves, high collar.  Appears to perhaps be floor length from an overhead shot.  Nothing too special so far…

Throne gown and Golden Shatter dress. Click for larger version

Queen: Throne gown

Seen first when she’s talking to the huntsman at 1:18

Off-the-shoulder black and gold gown with a very deep V-front plastron.  V appears to be metallic brocade, with a line of black and white trim down center-front.  Possibly a black ribbon with light (silver, light gold) embellishments.  Neckline has a wide trim, in black, tan/gold, and white.. with what looks to be bird skulls pointing upwards.  Sleeve tops (to bicep) appear to be black feathers or fur, very tight laced to wrist in gold with gold beading.  Also wearing crown with draped headdress. At 1:19 there’s a further shot out, and it appears to be a split skirt with two shades of black (or perhaps black on the sides and a super-dark burgundy in the middle). The black on the sides gives the impression perhaps it is tulle, but it’s too wide of a shot to really see any detail.

Queen: Golden Shattered dress

First seen in the trailer at 1:20 when the mirror shatters and she’s screaming.

Tightly fitted gold gown with long sleeves.  The sleeve ‘cuffs’ are pointed as well.  It has a somewhat low v-neckline, and the fabric is heavily textured (corded?) gold with gold trim.  Kind of like a heavy embroidered lace effect, but on a larger scale.  She’s wearing a large square medallion (on point) and a huge golden ring.

Queen: Black raven cloak

First seen in the trailer at 1:35

An impressive and memorable costume, with a huge black feather-covered standing collar that is almost as tall as the actress’ head.  In a split-second scene, the cloak transforms to smoke, and then ravens, taking the queen with it/them, but if you are super-quick with the pause button it appears that this is worn over a gold long, reasonably straight dress.  I am guessing it’s worn over the Golden Shattered dress.

Snow White: Red forest dress

First seen at 0:56 as she’s walking through the forest

In the first shot, done in silhouette, it’s a short dress (knee length) worn with tall boots.  It has a tapered waist, somewhat full skirt, and puffed short (bicep-length) sleeves. One second later we can see it’s red (possibly shot with black?) with a gold (matte, not shiny) neckline.

Two shots of the "classic" Snow White dress

Snow White: Classic/Chase Scene

First seen at 1:05 when she appears to be being chased through a foggy forest, 1:10 where she appears to be being chased through a green field, 1:16 where she’s trudging (likely being chased) through an underwater tunnelAlso at 1:22 where she’s being chased on horseback & 1:24 where she’s eaten the poison apple.

I’m calling this the “classic” Snow White costume, because it seems most like the typical ‘Disney’ costume.  However most of her screen time in this trailer involves her being chased.  (Ah Bella, always the victi…. oh, wait, this is a different character.  You can tell because her hair is darker. ….)

She wears a long, full (golden? ivory?) skirt in what looks like a plain, matte fabric, a bodice that (from the very dark view) looks like the same bodice as from the Red Forest Dress with the short puffed (and possibly panned) sleeves,  and then white ballerina-length sleeves under it with a inverted V shape cut at the “cuff” trimmed in something shiny (Satin? beads? trim?).  From the later (brighter, but VERY quick) scene, it looks as though the sleeves are panned, have some gold trim on them perhaps, and the sleeves aren’t attached at the underarm – the white undershirt is visible.

Later in the trailer (at 1:22 where she’s being chased on horseback) the white is a lot darker, and is now a medium grey.  Perhaps this is after going through mud or something, or just the on-screen colour… In this shot we can see that the bodice has ‘tails’ and is split at the sides (to allow for horseback riding no doubt!), and there’s a center-front opening (or decoration) in white.  There are obviously panned sleeves in this one, and tiny golden decorations on the sleeves (likely small beads).   I’d be guessing the red material is velveteen or something like that.

Finally at 1:24 there’s a GOOD shot of the dress, showing the sleeves are indeed paned (though there’s no visible golden beading), the white undershirt has a square collar like the red bodice and is trimmed with a narrow lace at the neckline, the center-front of the bodice is open and laced closed (exposing the white undershirt) and the long white sleeves appear to have cuffs, possibly trimmed with the same narrow lace.  However, as that scene pans out and above, it appears that she’s wearing black leggings and tall black boots – no skirt at all.

Snow White: Armor

Shown in silhouette, from the back, at 1:00 for the first time. Second shot at 1:33

There isn’t much to say here… I’m not really interested in the armor anyways, so it’s not really an issue. It’s silver, and possibly brown. The shield looks kind of cool, with a bit of a Rivendell-esque tree on the front. There is a solid, plain breastplate and articulated shoulders.  If you want more photos of the armor, Just Jared has some photos from on-set.

Costumes from the official website

On the official website there are a scarce few photos, but a few official photos showing some of the same costumes, and some that are different.

Cropped from the official image. Click for original

Here’s a better photo of the Red Forest dress (or Classic dress?) with the short skirt (really the bodice  is long and split) over a white chemise, black leggings and tall boots.

In this official photo we get a bit more of the outfit – but she also appears to be wearing a brown leather bracer (for archery?) on one arm.  I didn’t spot that in the trailer.  The hem of the chemise also seems to have a wider chunk of lace on it than appeared in the other shots.

Armour - edited from original - click for original

Above is the official photo of the armor – as before, it’s not that interesting to me.

Edited for original, visit website for full version, click for larger version.

Next up, two photos of the  Black Raven Cloak, both showing it actually being a collar of a dress which appears to be made of black reflective triangles.  This is definitely the same collar, but definitely NOT what was in the trailer.  I wonder if perhaps the collar was detachable, and for these publicity photos combining the collar with this dress seemed to better reflect the character than a black cloak?

Edited from original, click for original

The Black Triangle dress (as I’m going to call it!) is pretty impressive, and must have been difficult to move in.  It’s highly structured throughout the bodice, the sleeves are open, with long gothic sheer sleeves underneath.  The tip of the collar seems to have some metallic points on it, and the lighting in the shot above really brings out the ‘oil slick’ colours of the feathers in the collar.

Additional videos and photos

In this video (full of still photos) at 0:40 you can see that the bodice sleeve of the Classic Dress  is only attached at the shoulder, not at the underarm.  This looks pretty silly in this photo, but must have made it much more comfortable to move in.  It also makes it appear that there are two undersleeves, a fitted white one, and a more open grey one. At 0:28 and 1:13 this is seen again.  If you look at the different photos of the bodice, it also is clear that the red and white are separate pieces, because the center-front opening shape keeps changing.  From a narrow straight up and down, to a wider one, to a V shape.

Ok.. so back to the whole “Classic Dress” Vs. “Red Forest dress”.  I’ve got even more reason to think that these are two different outfits… or rather, the same red bodice, but a different length to the bodice ‘tails’, and a long skirt.  Compare this on-set shot from SciFiMafia.  There are multiple shots of this same dress, all showing a long red part, and long underskirt.  It’s hard to tell if the red ‘skirt’ is split or not the way the shorter version is, but there’s definitely a long (water-logged in this photo) skirt – which is nothing like the publicity still above as far as anything below the waist….

From SCiFiMafia - click for original article

My guess?  Probably something “happens” to the long dress (long bodice and long skirt) while she’s being chased.  Catches on thorns, gets cut by a sword.. whatever… and that it then “transforms” into the shorter, cuter version.    Just have to wait and see!

There’s definitely a colour-story to this movie though – which is kind of interesting…  if you were making (or just simply could have, if you’re not big into sewing/costuming) one of these outfits/dresses/gowns  – which would it be?  Let me know in the comments below!

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Cut! – The Golden Bowl – Charlotte’s blue dress

The poster for the costumes. Click to enlarge

The poster for the fourth and final gown from The Golden Bowl is my favorite, and the one that I would possibly be the most inspired by.  The poster (which you can click to enlarge as always) says:

The Golden  Bowl

Set in England, 1903-1906

“Uma Thurman as Charlotte Stant

The depth of colour of this dress comes through the layering of several colours of fabric.  The top layer is black-spangled lace which is laid on a second layer of medium blue net.  The third layer is green and turquoise shot silk which “glows’ through the first two layers.  The whole is finished with black velvet trim.  The bodice is made with the same layers of fabric and has what is called a “pouched” front and full puffed sleeves.”

Charlotte's blue dress

The above (nearly) full-length photo shows the blue and black fabrics, but you don’t really get a feel for the green and turquoise shot silk, apart from a slight indication at the top right hand side near the bust/neckline.

Full length of Charlotte's blue dress. The hat in the background belongs to another costume worn by the same character.

Here’s a longer view of the dress, albeit with the poster at the bottom left!

Close up of the cuff

On the cuff there are small knotted cord decorations -as though the cuff buttoned up.  There’s also just the tiniest hint of blue netting poking through (that must have been itchy and uncomfortable to wear!) and the velvet ribbon on the sleeve hem.

Close up of the shoulder

On the shoulder you can get a better idea of all of the colours in this dress.  here you can see the black, the blue, and the turquoise, along with the velvet ribbon, and the sequined (spangled) lace.

Close up from the side of the bodice.

Although this isn’t a great photo, this shows the brighter blue showing through. From the front this wasn’t as visible.  Here you can also see the ‘pouched’ bodice and the velvet belt.

even closer shot of the bodice - showing the brighter blue under the black lace.

Here’s an even closer shot of the bodice, where you can see all of the colours of fabrics used in this costume.  Here you can clearly see that the blue net is almost certainly just blue tulle.

velvet, lace, and gathered trim near the hem

This velvet and ruched ribbon trim is near the hem of the skirt – and you can even make out the yellow basting stitches on the bottom of the velvet.

velvet fabric at the edge of the hem

The very hem of the skirt is a velvet band with scalloped lace, covered with ruched ribbon.  On the majority of the dress, the scalloped lace covers the velvet ribbon, but here the scale of the scallops is much larger (which proportionally makes a lot of sense.  However I imagine that this lace isn’t actually scalloped, so the yardage was likely cut in a scallop and the raw edge covered in the ruched ribbon to cover the edge.

On screen

As I’ve previously mentioned, I haven’t seen this movie – so I went looking for screen captures with this dress, and it’s almost certainly the “black dress” shown on the Costume Captures blog.  I find it interesting that although the dress’s multiple shades of blue and the lace come through in person, likely due to lighting on screen – the colour of this dress is almost completely black in the screenshots, with only the sequins giving texture or light.

Cut! – The Golden Bowl – Maggie’s Cream dress

The poster for the costumes. Click to enlarge

There were four outfits from The Golden Bowl (two I have shown you earlier) and this is another that I didn’t particularly care for – but I wanted to share it nonetheless. Like the others, this is set in the Edwardian era, and this costume actually includes vintage fabrics.  The poster (click for larger version) says:

The Golden  Bowl

Set in England, 1903-1906

“Kate Beckinsale as Maggie Verver

This evening dress, worn at home in the film, has a cream sheer fabric over a green silk underskirt.  Lace in floral patterns adorns the bodice and skirt and a gauze panel is seen in the center of the bodice.  A blue sash completes the dress. 

The top layer of this dress is part of an original Edwardian garment.  This stiffened silk muslin with tape and cord floral decorations was carefully lifted off its decaying lining which was replaced with an eau de nil lining shot through with silver threads.  The lace at the hem is also vintage and was added to give a little extra length to the dress.”

Maggie's cream dress

The full-length shot of the dress showing the lace fabric, the lace hem, the bloused bodice, the blue (it looks green to me) sash, and the puffed sleeves along with the necklace.

Close up of cut-work lace at the hip with green layer behind.

Although I don’t care for the overall effect of the dress, I can really appreciate some of the details themselves.  In this photo you can see the faint mint green tulle peeking through the lace.  The lace is sort of battenburg-style, with tatting as well by the looks of things.  These would have likely been individual motifs sewn to the fabric of the dress, and then the remaining fabric behind the motif would have been cut away.

Hem

On the hem there’s a mesh fabric with lace flowers covering the same mint green tulle that backed the rest of the lace motifs, and the contrast lining fabric used for the very bottom of the hem.  This fabric really looks as though it was added to allow for additional length, but I think it was well-done.  I admit part of the reason I don’t care for this dress is that although there are a lot of interesting details, they all sort of fade away into one another a bit.  It seems really ‘forgettable’ – which might play into the character a bit.

Another shot of the hem

Above is another shot of the hem, more clearly showing the tulle and all of the different fabrics and trims used at the hem.  This also gives a good impression of the fabric shot with silver threads – giving that subtle sheen to the fabric that the lace doesn’t have.

Side shot of the dress, with a few of the other outfits in the background

From the side, it seems much more interesting to me…

This dress is referred to as the “Sheer Cornsilk Dress” in the Costume Captures blog.

Closer shot of the back, showing the belt with the rhinestone buckle.

I can’t really say that I like the rhinestone buckle with this otherwise ‘soft’ dress – what do you think?

Let me know in the comments below!

Cut! – The Last King – Catherine

Costume poster

The Last King: The Power and the Passion of Charles II

Television miniseries about King Charles II and his court set in Great Britain, mid 1600s.  Another bit of entertainment that I’ve never seen.  I’m beginning to see a trend here, are you? However, since it was a BBC miniseries (four episodes which ran in 2003) it’s not unusual that I wouldn’t have seen it.

I actually didn’t really care for this costume.  I found it kind of bland and boring in contrast to the costumes from the Duchess (which it was displayed near).  The poster (click for a larger version) says:

Shirley Henderson as Catherine of Braganza

As the wife of Charles II, Catherine of Braganza played an important role in the politics of the day.  Her large dowry brought the port cities of Tangiers and Bombay under British control, a major development in the rise of the British Empire.

This richly decorated black and silver dress is probably influenced by the portrait of her as a young person, painted by Dirk Stoop, but the style of the dress and its decoration are very similar to a dress that appears in the Valazquez painting, Las Meninas (the Maids of Honour).  The King, upon seeing the Stoop portrait and his new wife’s hair is reported to have exclaimed “My god!  They have brought me a bat to marry.”

The large slashed or paned sleeves with the undergarment showing through and the use of lace at the neckline and cuffs were representative of that time.  The skirt is held out at the hips with a farthingale.”

So first off – the Lalazquez painting (Las Meninas) that the dress looks a lot like – is on Wikipedia, and I can definitely see the resemblance – of the dress on the dwarf in the front. The painting is from 1656 and shows a large room in the Madrid palace of King Philip IV of Spain, filled with members of the Spanish Court.

Catherine lived from 1638-1705, and the Stoop portrait the poster refers to is likely this 1661 one, which shows Catherine in a dress of Portuguese style.

Catherine's dress

The costume breakdown would include the dark grey chemise with a drawstring neckline, the dark grey bodice with a large peplum, huge paned sleeves, and huge gold lace collar with a large, wide neckline, along with the long dark grey skirt over a corset and farthingale. The fabric is somewhat ribbed, and reminds me of grosgrain ribbon, in fabric form.

Catherine's dress

The center-front of the bodice had fake ‘buttons’ down the center of the lace.  I have some of these ‘buttons’ in my bead collection – they’re actually filigree balls.  The strands of blue-grey hanging down the front are the ties for the drawstring neckline on the chemise.

Catherine's dress

Loads of different kinds of lace and embellishment used on this one – from the (gaudy?) gold lace trim on the dress front to the heavy cream lace on the collar with the huge bow in metallic cream fabric with heavy gold braid trim.  Above the heavy lace there is a flat lace and even more braid.

Catherine's dress

The neckline of the bodice also has a number of pearls – although I don’t think this is terribly effective/attractive to me – the pearls are too far apart to really bring glamour to the dress, and they’re drowned out by all the lace and other trims.

Catherine's dress

The hem of the skirt, on the other hand, is a bit more attractive to me – with three lines of metallic braided trim.

Catherine's dress

The paned sleeves are also a bit gaudy for my taste… and finally below, another shot showing all of the embellishment at the neckline of the bodice.

Catherine's dress

If you want to check out the miniseries, it looks like most (if not all) of it is up on YouTube. I started to watch part of it, but I was a bit busy at the time, and it felt a little slow to me. I might come back and watch it later…?

Cut! – Miss Pettigrew Lives for a Day

Costume poster

Miss Pettigrew Lives for a Day is not the kind of movie that I would have seen either when it came out in 2008 (I’m really not much of a movie person) and I found the costume from the Cut! exhibit to be pretty underwhelming, though I had a friend who quite liked it.

The poster (click for a larger version) says:

“Amy Adams as Delysia LaFosse

Amy Adams wears a day dress of a colour called “Wallis Blue” named after the Duchess of Windsor.  The short dress has a self bow at the neck and a sash with a tortoise shell buckle at the waist.  The matching hat gives the whole (ensemble) some added oomph”

The movie is set in London in 1939.

Honestly, the only part of the outfit that I cared for was the hat!

Delysia LaFosse's hat

It’s an almost-matching (but not quite) blue with a red hatband, red binding/trim, and a red pin.

This outfit is shown in the movie trailer in a number of scenes.