The second costume I’ll share with you from The Golden Bowl from the Cut! exhibit was worn by Kate Beckinsale in the role of Maggie. Like Charlotte’s costume, I tried to look for screencaps from the movie itself, but had very little luck finding much at all. I guess unpopular movies don’t get much attention from the online world either.
The write up describes this costume as reflecting the military influences of the time that the movie was set (1903-1906). It goes on to describe that the beige jacket is embellished with embroidery – and tasseled frogs. The grey-green skirt contrasts with the jacket, and the cape has more embroidery and silk pleated fabric as trim. It further describes the hat as velvet with feathers.
I liked this outfit a great deal more – I like the grey-green, and the grey trim along with the beige fabric, though they aren’t colours I think would look good on me personally!
This is the front of the jacket – and the ‘frogs’ are really buttons with loops, with soutache trim tassels. I have a lot of soutache braid reserved for Victorian-era costumes (these costumes are Edwardian era mind you, but still!) I really like the layers of trim here. The buttons themselves stand out with their corded loops – but they are also embellished with a grid of soutache braid. The edges are piped with twisted cord, and the edges further embellished with wide braid. The texture of the braid looks like nylon webbing – but they way they curve around the edges suggests that it’s something else.
I didn’t really care for the embroidery on the collar of the cape. The flowers seem to be made of a fine wool, with thread-wrapped centers that are either stuffed or quilted somehow. They look a bit too much like a craft project from the 1960’s to me – but still something very distinct! Instead, I really like the grey ribbon waves and pleated fabric on the edges, but I’ve got a better photo of that below.
Above is another photo of the jacket – the trim on the side-front panels which hang down lower than the center front. These are trimmed with curved soutache braid as well, and with what looks like the webbing again. You can also see the texture of the grey-green skirt as well.
So here’s the densely pleated grey chiffon with a very narrow hem, and the wavy ribbon. I really like this trim – it’s beautiful close up, but so impressive in the final version. It looks so ornate and subtle at the same time to me. I find the ribbon fascinating – it looks vaguely like rick-rack, but it is grey ribbon that has been stitched on one end, in a waving pattern. I find it fascinating mostly because I wonder how it could be done so evenly, with any efficiency at all!
I liked this hat even better than the one earlier – although it is described as a velvet hat, and I’m not sure why. The brim on the underside seems to be a layer of ivory lace, then ivory sinamay in between, and the top layer pleated netting. Around the crown there seems to be dark navy (or black) feathers, and at the front a large grey striped fabric bow and a large white ostrich plume.
The top side of the brim, showing the pleated netting. At the very closest edge to the crown – there is a dark line – which may be the gathering line for the netting, or perhaps part of a wire structure supporting the brim.
This view of the brim suggests that there is a wire structure between the layers of netting and lace. This may also be the line where the netting is pleated – to hold the pleats in place as the brim curves.
The crown is also visible here – and it appears to be cream fabric, covered with two (or more) layers of the blue netting.
The edge of the brim seems to be trimmed in scalloped ivory lace as well.
Like the previous Golden Bowl costume – I couldn’t really find much more online about this costume, so if you have any further details or photos, feel free to post them or the links in the comments below!