I have this glorious dress I made a while back with a red silk skirt with black lace overlay – the black… is spiders and spiderwebs!
Of course, I ended up buying just a little more of the fabric later on, and had some red silk left over, so I thought that I would try out a slightly different technique to make this tricorn from the other one I’m working on (the teal silk).
Creating the hat
- Draped the buckram over the small head block. I wanted this to be another 3/4 sized hat rather than a full sized one.
- While the buckram was still wet, I draped a piece of fine red silk over it. I was unhappy how much texture from the buckram came through the silk, though ultimately this will be fine since another layer of lace will be going over top. However, this method did provide a very smooth finish with very few pleats.
- When dry, trimmed the buckram, basted the fabric to the edge.
- Spritzed a little bit of water inside the hat to re-activate any remaining sizing, and put a piece of red silk on the head form, putting the hat over top. This lightly secured the lining to the hat and made it fit extremely well.
- Basted the lining edge to the hat, arranging the pleats as needed.
- Wired the edge using the saddle/buttonhole stitch from previous hats. I did NOT add any bias to this edge.
- Fit the hat to my head. In the above photo you can see the texture of the buckram through the silk. I don’t love the texture, but luckily this will be covered up by the lace.
- Drafted the brim pattern from the wired hat edge, but out of buckram. Removed the inner space where the crown will fit minus the seam allowance (fold allowance).
- Roughly cut out red silk in two circles larger than the buckram plus the external seam allowance. Cut out the same of Heat N’ Bond Light, and fused the Heat N Bond to the silk.
- Peeled the paper backing from the Heat N Bond and fused the silk to one side of the buckram. I had to move this around a bit as I was ironing so that I wouldn’t get the glue on my iron or ironing board.
- Followed the pencil marks with thread, basting the line where I will need to clip to and fold so I could attach the brim to the crown.
- Repeated the process for the silk on the other side of the buckram (without the thread tracing).
- Trimmed the exterior silk, and the interior silk where the crown will go.
- I clipped the seam/fold allowance to the thread tracing, and folded up the tabs to place the crown on top.
- From here I placed the crown on the brim. The other ‘mistake’ here, was that I didn’t erase the pencil marks on the buckram before fusing the silk. I didn’t realize that this would show through – but as you can see in the photo below – it did!
- …. to be continued!!! (this post was just getting too picture-heavy!)