Part three of the red silk tricorn

Part three of my construction of the red silk ‘spiderweb’ mini tricorn

Basting the brim fabric to the top side of the brim (at the crown and edge)

  1. Read the first post for part one of this hat…..
  2. In my last post I had attached the fabric to the top of the crown and brim as above.
  3. Next, I pulled the grosgrain ribbon for the headband around the crown, pinned the centre back seam, and stitched the seam.
  4. I used a piece of corset boning to slip the headband over the crown, and stitched it into place.  Normally I wouldn’t need to stitch it down, but I made the headband a little too tight, and it had the need to pull up – since the band was needed to cover the stitching, I needed to stitch it down to keep from spilling my construction secrets!

    Adding the red grosgrain hat band which covers the stitching

  5. Next I laid the bottom brim lace fabric over the bottom of the hat, and pinned into place.
  6. adding the brim fabric to the bottom of the brim. To keep this smooth, I didn't cut the inner circle out until the brim circumference was basted.

  7. Then I basted along the outside edge securing the lace fabric to the brim, and then repeated on the crown edge.
  8. From there I could trim out the inside fabric, and then start attaching the sweatband.
  9. Attaching the sweatband (below) was also a difficult process – first shaping the grosgrain ribbon with steam and the iron (again this was rayon ribbon, so shaping it was relatively easy.
  10. From there I pinned it into place inside the crown as in the photo below.

    adding the sweatband to the hat

  11. I then prick-stitched the sweatband into the hat – this was very time-consuming, fussy and hard work as well, since there wasn’t a lot of fabric to work with, and the shape was so tight.  I imagine that a curved needle would be useful here, as I did when working on the Teal Tricorn hat earlier.

    trimming the brim with bias

  12. From there I applied bias binding to the outside edge of the hat.  I ended up using plain, store-bought double fold bias tape here, largely out of laziness, and a lack of willingness to interface (for support/structure) the red silk to make self-fabric binding.  To the left is a photo of the back centre of the bias binding, with the fold-over finishing.

    cutting lace strips for the brim trim

  13. Then I cut a long strip of black spiderweb lace to trim the brim edge as well.  Above is a photo of the hat with the red binding, and the strips ready for the next step.

    trimming off the excess trim

  14. I stitched one edge of the lace trim, folded it over the edge, and then stitched the other edge.  I then trimmed off the excess lace to make a clean edge.

    the wide lace braid on the top side of the brim

  15. Since the top of the brim would be folded up, and be seen through the inside of the hat, but would not be “obvious” on the hat, I wanted to trim it, but make it interesting too.  I found this gorgeous braid in my ‘stash’ and stitched it around the brim.

    The wide braid extends past the brim edge for a lacy-like finish

  16. I wanted the edge to be ‘lacy’ so extended the braid just past the brim edge so it would show up over the edge.  I think it’s a really neat effect.  The braid also covers up the seam on the binding.

    black rayon braid added to the bottom edge of the brim

  17. Then on the underside of the brim, I stitched a black rayon braid.

    Close up of the brim, showing how the braid covers the seams

  18. The braid on the underside of the brim coordinates with the other braid, but isn’t the same.  This braid is usually called ‘gimp’ and I’ve used it a few times before for millinery, but it’s also used in upholstery and home dec.
  19. From there I folded the tricorn brim into place!

    Finished hat!

  20. So.. three posts… is it worth it for the final version? I think so –  I love this hat!

Final thoughts

After making the teal tricorn hat, I had a few different things I wanted to try to solve problems I ran into with that hat… these included the crown finishing and the fabric pulling away from the buckram.

I kind of like the solution for the crown finishing, though it would better if I hadn’t made the hatband so tight.  For the brim, adding fusible to the buckram on both sides likely made the brim a bit too stiff.  Since I used a lighter weight wire on the brim edge (since a stiff brim didn’t need as much support) this means that the fold making the tricorn of the hat isn’t as crisp as with the Teal Tricorn.  Using fusible on the top side of the brim might just be enough, and a stronger wire would likely help as well.

I might still want to add in a feather or something – but I think I need to live with this hat the way it is first, so it doesn’t become over-embellished.

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One comment on “Part three of the red silk tricorn

  1. […] might remember the red tricorn mini-hat I made a while back.  This fascinator uses the same red silk and black spiderweb lace (actually […]

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