Cut! – The Golden Bowl – Charlotte’s blue dress

The poster for the costumes. Click to enlarge

The poster for the fourth and final gown from The Golden Bowl is my favorite, and the one that I would possibly be the most inspired by.  The poster (which you can click to enlarge as always) says:

The Golden  Bowl

Set in England, 1903-1906

“Uma Thurman as Charlotte Stant

The depth of colour of this dress comes through the layering of several colours of fabric.  The top layer is black-spangled lace which is laid on a second layer of medium blue net.  The third layer is green and turquoise shot silk which “glows’ through the first two layers.  The whole is finished with black velvet trim.  The bodice is made with the same layers of fabric and has what is called a “pouched” front and full puffed sleeves.”

Charlotte's blue dress

The above (nearly) full-length photo shows the blue and black fabrics, but you don’t really get a feel for the green and turquoise shot silk, apart from a slight indication at the top right hand side near the bust/neckline.

Full length of Charlotte's blue dress. The hat in the background belongs to another costume worn by the same character.

Here’s a longer view of the dress, albeit with the poster at the bottom left!

Close up of the cuff

On the cuff there are small knotted cord decorations -as though the cuff buttoned up.  There’s also just the tiniest hint of blue netting poking through (that must have been itchy and uncomfortable to wear!) and the velvet ribbon on the sleeve hem.

Close up of the shoulder

On the shoulder you can get a better idea of all of the colours in this dress.  here you can see the black, the blue, and the turquoise, along with the velvet ribbon, and the sequined (spangled) lace.

Close up from the side of the bodice.

Although this isn’t a great photo, this shows the brighter blue showing through. From the front this wasn’t as visible.  Here you can also see the ‘pouched’ bodice and the velvet belt.

even closer shot of the bodice - showing the brighter blue under the black lace.

Here’s an even closer shot of the bodice, where you can see all of the colours of fabrics used in this costume.  Here you can clearly see that the blue net is almost certainly just blue tulle.

velvet, lace, and gathered trim near the hem

This velvet and ruched ribbon trim is near the hem of the skirt – and you can even make out the yellow basting stitches on the bottom of the velvet.

velvet fabric at the edge of the hem

The very hem of the skirt is a velvet band with scalloped lace, covered with ruched ribbon.  On the majority of the dress, the scalloped lace covers the velvet ribbon, but here the scale of the scallops is much larger (which proportionally makes a lot of sense.  However I imagine that this lace isn’t actually scalloped, so the yardage was likely cut in a scallop and the raw edge covered in the ruched ribbon to cover the edge.

On screen

As I’ve previously mentioned, I haven’t seen this movie – so I went looking for screen captures with this dress, and it’s almost certainly the “black dress” shown on the Costume Captures blog.  I find it interesting that although the dress’s multiple shades of blue and the lace come through in person, likely due to lighting on screen – the colour of this dress is almost completely black in the screenshots, with only the sequins giving texture or light.

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