Historical Sew Monthly – May 2016

Goldhaube and Tellerbarret worn with a mundane sweater

Goldhaube and Tellerbarret worn with a mundane sweater (iphone photo)

This is a hat (or rather two hats worn together) for the Historical Sew Monthly challenge for May 2016.

Completed Tellerbarret

Completed Tellerbarret

The hat specifically for this challenge is a Tellerbarret – a German Kampfrau beret-like hat (platter-hat) worn over the Goldhaube, the golden puffy coif-like hat.

The Challenge: “May – Holes – sometimes the spaces between stuff are what makes a garment special. Make a garment that is about holes, whether it is lace, slashing, eyelets, etc.”

Material:

  • The Tellerbarret is mostly made of a wool blend fabric – a light coat-weight in a bright blue that I picked up for $1/meter at the Grandmother’s Fabric sale.
  • It’s lined and trimmed with a lighter blue fabric from the same sale that is either linen or a cotton/linen blend. (Also about $1/meter.)
  • The brim trim fabric is 100% silk remnants I got for free from a friend of my mother’s. It’s actually two different fabrics (in three small pieces) pieced together.

The Goldhaube is made of a golden silk from the same sale (also $1/meter) which is a gold shot with white for a slightly metallic look. It’s trimmed in faux pearls. I have a hand-made wire hook and eye at the back to secure it. The reference pattern creator said she originally tied hers, but I was concerned this would get caught in my hair. She said she didn’t need to use it after all, but since I needed to fuss around with my hair, I figured I’d keep a closure.

Most re-enactors favour lots of feathers on this style of hat, but a lot of the reference photos I looked at didn’t have these feathers… and since I am making this for a camping event, I opted to avoid the feathers for pack-ability.

Pattern: There are a few different instructions for the platter hat online, but the ones I liked the best didn’t really *work* for me in terms of looking enough like my reference portraits. I opted to draft my own pattern, which is essentially an oversized beret.  Since the hat sits to the side instead of along the crown, I made the opening circular rather than oval.

Completed Goldhaube from the back

Completed Goldhaube from the back

For the Goldhaube, I started making my own pattern, tested it out, and didn’t love it. I ended up using Genoveva von Lubeck’s schematics and was much more satisfied.

Year: 15-16th century

Notions: needle, thread (the gold thread is pulled from the fabric for a close match, the blue thread is regular polyester sewing thread), faux pearls, fusible interfacing

How historically accurate is it? The fusible interfacing is obviously not period-informed, but I didn’t have any canvas to add in there instead. Faux pearls were used in period, though likely these would have been real. The pattern is speculative based on portraits. The Goldhaube is entirely hand-sewn. The inner circle of the Tellerbarret is sewn by machine for security, (since this seam is most under stress) while the rest is done by hand.

Back of the Tellerbarret (iphone Photo)

Back of the Tellerbarret (iphone Photo)

Hours to complete: The hand-finishing of all the slashing probably took the most amount of time, though I really didn’t measure. I completed it between one afternoon to draft and muslin, one afternoon of hand-sewing at an event in earnest, and another afternoon to put the pearls on.

First worn: Not yet… if I have time to complete two entirely new outfits… I hope to wear it for Silverwolf 2016 in mid-June.

Total cost: I didn’t buy anything for this project specifically, but the fabric cost about $5 (with plenty left over) because it was such an insanely good sale. The pearls were free, from my stash, acquired a long time ago.

More to come

I’ll post more works-in-progress photos in an upcoming post. I’m pretty busy right now and wanted to keep this one short! Follow the German Late Period tag to stay on top of future posts!

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One comment on “Historical Sew Monthly – May 2016

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