Istanbul: Entari

Completed Istanbul outfit

Completed Istanbul outfit

After starting on the Hirka, the next garment I wanted to make for my late-period Turkish costume was the Entari, described from my overview as:

“Medium-weight A or bell-shaped coat. Fitted to the waist and shaped with side gores with an overlapping front gore. Usually floor-length. Round or v-neck. Closed down the front with small buttons and loops or long frogs. Often depicted unbuttoned from neckline to chest and waist to floor. Most often with wide, elbow-length sleeves, though also shown narrow and wrist-length. Occasionally extremely long maunche-like sleeves with slits. Most often made of silk, lined in cotton. Rarely trimmed, but the inside edge was often faced with silk.”

Since my Hirka was bright orange-pink (shot fabric) lined with coral, I wanted something equally bright for my Entari. I originally planned on using the hot pink silk noil I picked up at the Grandmother’s Fabric Sale in Red Deer, but I didn’t think I had enough of it to accommodate the large side gores as well.

I opted instead to select some hot pink linen that I picked up at a different Grandmother’s Fabric Sale (I think… I might have also got it free from a former teacher). Like the Hirka, I decided to block print this as well with a similar motif.

Pattern

Like the Hirka, I used a similar pattern as my ‘rectangular construction’ underdress, which is similar to Mistress Ari Usni’s 15th – 16th century Turkish Clothing patterns document. It’s a bit different though.. I decided to do pleated side gores from the waist down to get the fullness, and added triangular panels to the centre front from hips down to get the additional flare. I opted for short sleeves, since the event I’ll be attending is in June and I anticipate it might be warm. If I get chilly I’ll put a warmer layer on under the whole outfit. I also decided on the v-neckline rather than the round one.

This time I cut out the pattern pieces, then block-printed the fabric.

Block printing

Printing the individual panels for the entari

Printing the individual panels for the entari

I used the same blocks as with the Hirka, but rotated the three dots to a more pleasing orientation, and did a decorative element at the centre back… it deviates from the notion of the fabric being woven instead of printed – but I like it all the same 😉

I used the same metallic red/metallic blue/silver + textile medium for the crescents as I used on the Hirka (though with the different background colour it looks a bit different). For the dots I used gold paint mixed with textile medium.

I let the paint dry, then heat-set it with the iron.

Finishing

Once the painting was set, I sewed up the garment. This was not going to be lined, but instead faced. The front opening was faced with shot silk, and the hem also faced with the same, but the neckline face-bound with bias of that shot silk. (It’s a peach shot with purple, so really neat….)

I originally was going to face the sleeves as well with the silk, but opted to simply hem the sleeves. I used the same shot silk to make the closures for the front of the entari. In the images I could see they appeared to largely be similar length, and slightly spread apart. I opted to have them slightly spread apart – but narrow from bust to waist with the hope that it will make the garment look less bulky.  (Since the waist has those big hips…)

I used the same pewter buttons on the entari as on the hirka, and attached them over the silk strips on one side, and used the silk stripes on the other side as the loops.

Read more…

See all of my Ottoman posts (once they all come up!) by following the Ottoman category!

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