June 2016 Historical Sew Monthly – Ottoman costume

Completed Istanbul outfit

Completed Istanbul outfit

I’ve already started posting about my Ottoman costume- and it happens to fit perfectly into the June 2016 Historical Sew Monthly challenge! Since the Ottoman costume is intended to participate in the current (SCA) Royal Progress (the King and Queen setting different locations that their personas are travelling on) it matches the theme of travel (inspired by the Royals’ travel) really well!

I started mid-May doing some of the initial research, in order to have the project done by the first weekend in June, and you can read all of the posts about the different element of this costume by clicking the Ottoman category.

Historical Sew Monthly

The Challenge: June – Travel – make a garment for travelling, or inspired by travel.

Material: The full outfit is made mostly of linen and dupioni silk. The hat also includes silk charmeuse (lining) and coat-weight wool (interlining). (Probably a wool/nylon blend). The belt also includes silk charmeuse.

Pattern: All garments were self-drafted. The hat was drafted with usual millinery drafting techniques, while the garments were largely drafted with rectangular/trapezoid techniques. Pattern directions were used from other costumers.

Year: 16th Century Ottoman

Notions: Thread (silk for some of the hand-sewing, polyester and nylon for the rest, embroidery thread for the button loops), pewter buttons, elastic for the pants.

concept sketch for the costume

concept sketch for the costume

How historically accurate is it? I based the garment shapes off illustrations, and followed patterning directions from other costumers, referencing extant garments (albeit from slightly later for the most part). Largely machine sewn, hand-finished.

Hours to complete: No idea. I never track this it seems. According to Instagram though, I finished the hat 4 hours after posting the finished coat… so… ages.

First worn: I made this for June 2016 Crown on the first weekend of June, but because of terrible insects at the event and other issues, I didn’t wear it there. It has yet to be worn for anything other than photos.

Concept sketches (and working through ideas) for the hat

Concept sketches (and working through ideas) for the hat

Total cost: Not really sure…
The orange silk was bought on sale for about $20/meter, and I used about 2 meters.
The coral linen was also bought on sale for about $15/meter and I used about 2 meters.
The pink linen was from the grandmother’s fabric sale, and I used about 3 meters at $1/meter.
The pink/purple shot silk was from my stash, and I have NO idea when or where I bought it.
The blue silk was from a quilt shop probably a decade ago. I used less than a meter at $28/meter
The teal silk was also from the quilt shop, in a bundle of fat 8s… not sure on the price.
The grey wool used to interline the hat was also from the grandmother’s fabric sale. I used less than a meter at $1/meter.
The pewter buttons were about $6.00 for 10, and I used 10 for the vest, and 6 for the coat. (I bought way more than 16…)
The navy silk (belt) was given to me, as was the fuchsia silk (hat lining).
The pants took up under 2 meters of linen, at about $6.00/meter (not including shipping).

So… what does that equal up to?

Read more

iPhone selfie in the completed outfit

iPhone selfie in the completed outfi

For individual posts about the garments, click:

Hirka – vest

Entari – coat

Shalwar – pants

Tarpus – hat

Accessories – belt and necklace

One comment on “June 2016 Historical Sew Monthly – Ottoman costume

  1. Josephine Washington says:

    Another amazing dedication to accuracy and design. So well documented and illustrated on here. Thanks for sharing, and congratulations on what I think is another success.

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