If you’ve been following my posts about my Late Period German costume, or if you follow me on Instagram, you’ll know that I started work on a Cranach gown for an event in mid-January. I started the research in early December, but didn’t actually have the chance to really dig into actually MAKING the gown until early January when I drafted the first pattern for the toile (mock up, muslin).
Oh yeah. First toile. There was more than one.
I’m going to break this project up into a few posts – to keep them short and sweet. If you want to see all of the posts about this project, just click the German Late Period tag for information about all the things I’ve done in this period or Cranach Gown tags for information specifically about this style.
For the first toile, things went pretty well. I used a heavy linen-look synthetic fabric that I got for free from my mum. I didn’t think that I’d ever use this fabric for anything else, and the weight works good to replicate the linen-cotton blend canvas I’ll use to interline the bodice with.
I wanted the seam allowances to be precise, so I marked them with a ruler directly onto the fabric. You might remember – I don’t cut my patterns with seam allowances already on them – this allows me to customize the seam allowance for the fabric I’m using if I use the same pattern multiple times, as well as the seam treatment I’ll use. It also allows me to easily make alterations to my patterns.
The final fit was pretty decent – I used a zipper to fasten the bodice closed on the side-centre front, which secured the piece that would be the brustfleck (gold part of the stomacher/plastron) to the bodice itself…
This ended up being problematic – the pattern was VERY snug in the bust – and this didn’t end up working out well for me.
You can see at my shoulder that I did make a small alteration to this area – I also lowered the armhole slightly when I made this alteration to the pattern before moving onto bodice number one….
Stay tuned… and I’ll share bodice number one – aka the Cranach Bodice of Failure.
I’ll be posting more of this costume over the next few posts – read the Cranach Gown tags to see more from this particular gown, or read all of the posts about projects I’ve done around German late period styles including accessories.