Black & red early-period coat – April 2017 HSM

Black wool-blend coat to add to my Viking Age garb kit. This has a red and black twill reverse facing and hand embroidery using pearl cotton.

Black wool-blend coat with red and black trim

While most of my outerwear garments are for my Viking Age costume kit – I realized that this coat could really be for any early period that I might want to do, since the shapes are so similar across different styles.

Once I was finished with my term as Montengarde’s Emerald Rose, I wanted to shift my SCA wardrobe away from so much green, and back to my typical more goth aesthetic. I acquired some black wool-blend twill fabric, some red and black wool-blend twill fabric, and some black and grey wool-blend fabric (with an interesting basket-type of weave) from my former teacher and despite the partially synthetic content, I decided to start there.

Pattern

Black wool-blend coat to add to my Viking Age garb kit. This has a red and black twill reverse facing and hand embroidery using pearl cotton.

Selfie in my black wool-blend coat with red and black trim

I used the same pattern as my black and white Viking coat for this coat. This is basically long rectangles for the body, rectangles for the sleeves, and then trapezoids for the sides. The pattern is extremely fabric efficient, with very little waste. I’ve yet to perfect the sleeves cut as trapezoids to begin with, so once the garment is mostly constructed, I trim the sleeves down… which isn’t ideal, but gives the result I want.

Fabric

Black wool-blend coat to add to my Viking Age garb kit. This has a red and black twill reverse facing and hand embroidery using pearl cotton.

Black wool-blend coat with red and black trim

Like my very first wool Norse coat, this fabric isn’t 100% wool, which I would have prefered. However, free fabric is awesome, and I wanted to use it. It feels like really nice wool, and looks like wool, and the twill weave is period-correct… so I’m happy either way.

The red and black twill is also not 100% wool, but again, it was free and I’m glad to find a use for it.

Construction

I made up the coat in the same way I do with my under dresses, minus the front opening. Since the fabric would not rip, I had to draw threads to cut the pattern out.

I’m usually terrible about tracking my time on projects so I tried to track this one better.

  • Between cutting out the pattern, and doing the basic sewing (just basically putting together the pieces, not getting to the sleeve trims, hems, or facings) took 2 hours.

Embroidery

Herringbone stitch in black pearl cotton and a running stitch - on my red and black wool-blend Viking Age coat.

hand embroidery stitches on my black and red coat

I didn’t want the embroidery on this one to be too “blingy” – just simple stitches to hold down the reverse facings and hem. I opted to use a pearl cotton thread because I’ve used it for this before, with a herringbone and running stitch.

Historical Sew Monthly

Promo for my new Viking Age style coatLike my last Historical Sew Monthly post, this garment is coming in super-late. I basically haven’t had the chance to really do a lot of sewing since January, so I’m now trying to play catch-up to finish at least some of the challenges.

The Challenge: April: Circles, Squares & Rectangles – Many historical garments, and the costumes of many people around the world, use basic geometric shapes as their basis. In this challenge make a garment made entirely of squares, rectangles and circles.

Material: Wool blend fabrics – one black twill, the other red/black twill. Cotton embroidery thread

Pattern: self-drafted using rectangular construction. In addition to a bunch of rectangles, there are also trapezoids to make up this garment.

Year: Viking age

Notions: thread, embroidery thread

Black wool-blend coat to add to my Viking Age garb kit. This has a red and black twill reverse facing and hand embroidery using pearl cotton.

Selfie in my black wool-blend coat with red and black trim

How historically accurate is it? Pattern is speculative. Fibre content is incorrect – 100% wool would be preferable. Weave is correct. Embroidery stitches are correct, though the fibre content isn’t.

Hours to complete: 2 for the basic construction, probably another 4 for finishing.

First worn: Bitter End’s Harvest Feast (when ALMOST done, because I was working on the hand-stitching and it got really cold!)

Total cost: Both of the fabrics were free to me. However if I’d bought them, they’d likely be $30-40/meter. The black twill was 3.5 meters, and the red was about 1 meter, but I’m using the remainder for another garment.

2 comments on “Black & red early-period coat – April 2017 HSM

  1. Josephine Washington says:

    Looks great Dawn and could grace any present day catwalk too. Such a detailed post as well.

  2. norma says:

    Looks lovely. I like all the details you’ve shown too

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