Tweed German gollar

German gollar

Complete teal wool gollar – a German Renaissance capelette/collar

In early January I showed off a German Renaissance Gollar – a sort of cape/ collar/ partlet kind of over-garment/accessory. I made up my first version in teal wool suiting with black velveteen lining.

I wanted to try a different method for supporting the neckline, so decided to make a second version.

Continue reading

German gollar – Historical Sew Monthly January 2017

Finished teal wool Gollar worn with the wool-side out.

Finished teal wool Gollar worn with the wool-side out.

By early December I hadn’t yet started drafting a pattern for a Cranach gown, and was starting to feel nervous… when the Historical Sew Monthly posted the January theme, I could see an obvious item – and decided to make a German gollar for the challenge.

Historical Sew Monthly January 2017

What the item is: German Gollar

The Challenge: January: Firsts & Lasts – Create either the first item in a new ensemble, or one last piece to put the final fillip on an outfit.

Cathrin Åhlén (Katafalk) describes the gollar as a “common garment” for keeping warm; a short cape with “either a high collar or no collar at all, and it can be either short or it can be more of a cloak and go down to the hips”. She describes it as made in silk brocade with fancy clasps for higher social classes, but on “simpler women you almost always see no closure at all”. She speculates that those garments are closed with hooks and eyes, had no closures, or may have had hidden lacings. She notes that they can be lined in fur for extra warmth, and were often decorated with contrasting borders.

I found most examples of the border-decorated gollars on the ‘camp-follower’ (kampfraus, lower-class) styles, while when the gollar is worn with a Cranach-style gown, (court gown?) it’s almost always plain black. With that in mind I thought to make a semi-reversible gollar… though got a bit hung up on that when it came to the closure.

Since it’s a ‘top’ layer garment, worn over the dresses.. I would see it (and a hat) as the ‘last piece’ put on when dressing. In her “how to Frau” tutorial, Cathrin names the gollar as the last item (before accessories like purses, belts, etc). Funny enough, it’s the FIRST item I’ve made for this overall project, with the hopes that if I really can’t find enough time to finish the gown, that I can “throw” this over another gown and “pass” for an attempt at German. (Italian tourist perhaps?)

Continue reading

Silk Road garb (Part 5 – Collar)

Gown on the dress form - close up.

Gown on the dress form – close up.

I love the big collar that seems to define the look of the Byzantine costumes, so it was high on my list of things to make for this costume. I really wanted to use the gorgeous trim that I bought at Bhatia’s Cloth House a while ago, but I couldn’t use it as-is.

In this post I’ll write about the collar, the wrist cuffs, and some of the other accessories that are part of this costume.

Continue reading

Lockable Viking Knit

My lion-head silver Viking Knit chain with a rhinestone-covered lock for a clasp

My lion-head silver Viking Knit chain with a rhinestone-covered lock for a clasp

Around the same time that I was trying to find interesting closures for the Viking Knit chain that I’d made, I ran into a friend who was wearing a chain mail choker necklace – but instead of a clasp, she actually had a small lock on it.

Similar to the Tiffany & Co. lockable jewelry (see the chain bracelet here, the narrow hinged bangle here, and the wide hinged cuff here) as well as the leather cuffs and collars favoured by fetishists and club kids, I thought it would be interesting to see the Viking Knit with a lockable closure instead of the spring gate closure I’d been using up to that point.

I popped a shiny silver lock onto the tri-colour Viking Knit chain with skull end caps. I originally bought this lock for an accent on a corset – but never ended up making the corset… (yet!).

Three-colour Viking Knit with skull head end caps with a shiny silver lock for a closure

Three-colour Viking Knit with skull head end caps with a shiny silver lock for a closure

I also added a rhinestone-covered heart-shaped lock to the silver Viking Knit chain with lion head end caps. (Pictured above) I think I like this one even better! I originally bought the lock as a gift for a friend…. but then ended up not giving it to her, and into my stash of crafty things it went instead!