Corset class – cutting it out

Close up on the silk and sheer lace overlay on the purple silk corset

Close up on the silk and sheer lace overlay on the purple silk corset

At this point you should have all of your materials (or know where you’re going to get them) to make your very first corset. If you’re not playing along with my Corset Class – a lot of these tips will also help you with other sewing projects too!

Getting ready

First up, you’ll likely want to pre-wash your fabrics.  Some people say “why bother?  I’m going to dry clean my corset!” but I still recommend pre-washing, because it will get rid of sizing, excess dye, and will pre-shrink your fabric if needed.

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Corset class – the care and feeding of corsets

Once you have finished your corset, you’re going to want to wear it as much as possible, right?  Well, to keep it lasting, I have a few suggestions for the care (and feeding!?) of your corset.

Putting a corset on & taking it off

Hook and eye tape used in the front of a pink and black brocade couture custom-made overbust corset

Hook and eye tape used in the front of a brocade corset

Remember those tricky busks?  Well you need to give them extra love so that they don’t break. If your corset has a front-opening (either a busk, zipper, hook and eye tape, etc), make sure you always loosen your laces before undoing your busk.  I know it’s 4am and you’ve just gotten home, your feet hurt and all you want to do is crawl into bed, but taking the few extra minutes can save the huge headache of having to have your busk replaced.

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Corset class – The masculine side of corsetry

Grommets for lacing on a couture, custom-made corset.

Grommets for lacing with nylon cord

One question I’ve been asked that there doesn’t seem to be a lot (or perhaps just enough) information on is corsetry for men.  I have found that these inquiries generally fall into four  different categories:

  • Men looking to change their figure to a more curvy, hourglass (stereotypical feminine) figure (either for cross-dressing, female illusionists, or female impersonation performances).
  • Men looking to wear corsets but maintain a fairly straight or v-shaped (stereotypical masculine) silhouette.  (Taming that pot-belly for instance, or supporting their backs.)
  • Men looking for the fashionable aspect of corsets. (Popular amongst  goth, emo, steampunk, cyberpunk, or fetish sub-culture fashions.)
  • Men who enjoy the restrained feeling of being in a corset – like bondage you can wear under your clothes.

This, to me, comes down to two different styles of corsets – one that tries to imitate a desired ‘feminine’ figure for the male dresser; one with curves, and one that tries to enforce a more straight or v-shaped ‘masculine’ figure.  Those looking for fashion or restraint may go either way, depending on their own figure, their interests, and indeed, their own self-confidence!

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Dawn’s Corset Class – Boning basics

The completed lacing strip in my German renaissance bodice, sliding a piece of boning into the strip. This will support the lacing and keep the strip from buckling. It keeps tension more even.

The completed lacing strip in my German renaissance bodice, sliding a piece of boning into the strip. This will support the lacing and keep the strip from buckling. It keeps tension more even.

There are a number of different corset boning options you will have, each with benefits and problems.  I’ll try to go over some of them.  Most of these options include both high and low qualities, which can add some problems to a good compare/contrast. Ultimately, you may wish to do additional research to decide what boning you think is best for your needs.

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Shortening a too-long zipper

 

A few weeks back I shared a post on Instagram about how to shorten a too-long zipper. This was for my German Renaissance costume (the zipper is hidden and stands in for period-appropriate hooks and eyes). Today I’ll show more than just a few photos… but also the instructions!

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