Black and white striped Ottoman Entari

Striped Ottoman Entari - a black and white striped cotton trimmed with blue silk.

Work in progress – Striped Ottoman Entari – a black and white striped cotton trimmed with blue silk.

While going through my sometimes overflowing collection of fabrics, I started sorting out some of them into boxes of what kinds of fabric they were (green suit-weight wool, pale linen, etc) but some lengths of fabric quickly made me think of particular costumes, so I ended up bagging them together, hoping that they’d inspire me to SEW…

One of those fabrics was a black and white striped cotton that I received from my former teacher. There was about 4 meters of it, which was enough to make a late-period Turkish (Ottoman) Entari. When I was originally making my first Turkish costume, I wrote in my overview that this coat was:

“Medium-weight A or bell-shaped coat. Fitted to the waist and shaped with side gores with an overlapping front gore. Usually floor-length. Round or v-neck. Closed down the front with small buttons and loops or long frogs. Often depicted unbuttoned from neckline to chest and waist to floor. Most often with wide, elbow-length sleeves, though also shown narrow and wrist-length. Occasionally extremely long maunche-like sleeves with slits. Most often made of silk, lined in cotton. Rarely trimmed, but the inside edge was often faced with silk.”

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Small Ottoman inspired woodburned box

New small pyrography decorated bling box with a tiger-stripe & 'chintamani' Ottoman design

New small pyrography decorated bling box with an Ottoman design

A while ago I made a large bling box with a design inspired by Ottoman garments to hold and transport the bling for my costume.

Simple circles on the woodburned box for my Ottoman Empire Turkish costume elements.

Simple circles on the woodburned box for my Ottoman Empire Turkish costume elements.

Although I love the garb for this costume, and am in the process of making more – I don’t have a lot of jewellery for this costume. Although I have a few accessories (hat, belt), they’re too bulky to all fit in the box.

Which… kind of makes the box less useful right now until I make more bling for this costume!

With that in mind, I figured I’d make a smaller box that can just hold the few pieces I do have – and it will fit inside the bigger one if I want.  Continue reading

June 2016 Historical Sew Monthly – Ottoman costume

Completed Istanbul outfit

Completed Istanbul outfit

I’ve already started posting about my Ottoman costume- and it happens to fit perfectly into the June 2016 Historical Sew Monthly challenge! Since the Ottoman costume is intended to participate in the current (SCA) Royal Progress (the King and Queen setting different locations that their personas are travelling on) it matches the theme of travel (inspired by the Royals’ travel) really well!

I started mid-May doing some of the initial research, in order to have the project done by the first weekend in June, and you can read all of the posts about the different element of this costume by clicking the Ottoman category.

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Istanbul: Shalwar

Lifting my hems to show off the Shalwar

Lifting my hems to show off the Shalwar

One of the last garments I made for my Turkish outfit is the pants – Shalwar, described from my overview as:

” Very soft and lightweight ankle-length pants. Wide at the thighs, narrowing at the ankle. Could be white, or patterned cotton or silk. “

I wasn’t sure if I would have time to make these as well, so thought of a) using my Norse pants (which also have a wide hip, and the “narrow cuff” would tuck into my boots anyways. or b) using some linen purchased pants instead

However… I DID end up having enough time to sew these up!

Pattern

Master Rashid’s pattern schematic

I used the pattern on Pinterest attributed to Master Rashid. This is an incredibly fabric-conservative pattern, basically taking the leftover from what is cut off to make the ankle narrow.

The schematic suggests making the “waist” quite large so that there can be a lot of gathering creating the big-hipped look… so I followed nearly as much as the schematic suggested (but not quite) for my muslin…

Muslin for the Shalwar

Muslin for the Shalwar

I made the muslin using a purple/blue cotton that I was given, and it turned out well… but really way too big. It really just wasn’t flattering.

The pants were also way longer than they really needed to be, so I also had to adjust that.

I ended cutting the finished pants from some lightweight navy blue linen, which is the same linen I used for my navy linen Norse underdress.  If I’d had more time, I might have printed it like the other garments – perhaps for a future version!

I sewed the pants up entirely by machine, and used the triangle from the leg to make the gusset for the crotch.

Marking the blue linen for the shalwar

Marking the blue linen for the shalwar

I did a waistband for the pants, but instead of just doing a drawstring (which I suspect would be the period option) I also fed elastic through the waistband, which just feels more secure.

Gomlek

I skipped making the Gomlek for this costume – because I already had a white linen underdress. The Gomlek is descriped (from my Overview post) as a:

“lightweight, sheer undershirt with long and narrow sleeves and a round neck. Later period Gomleks have wide, long sleeves. Appears to be generally white cotton, silk, or linen. May have embroidery or tablet weaving along the seams and hem.”

The underdress I ended up wearing with this outfit is a medium-weight white linen – with wider sleeves (like the later-period Gomleks). I would have preferred a lighter weight if I had something, but this works just fine. The red couching was already on it from before (I made this dress probably 10 years ago), not intentional for the Turkish theme…