Tweed German gollar

German gollar

Complete teal wool gollar – a German Renaissance capelette/collar

In early January I showed off a German Renaissance Gollar – a sort of cape/ collar/ partlet kind of over-garment/accessory. I made up my first version in teal wool suiting with black velveteen lining.

I wanted to try a different method for supporting the neckline, so decided to make a second version.

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German split-brim hat – Historical Sew Monthly February 2017

German Renaissance style costume hat

My German Renaissance Split-Brim hat with grey ostrich feathers worn with my black velveteen Gollar and my Cranach gown costume.

In mid-January the SCA barony I live in celebrated the step-up of a new Baron and Baroness, who have German personas. To recognize their elevation in a symbolic kind of way, several of us planned to add German elements to our existing costumes. As I wasn’t entirely sure if I could pull together a new German gown in time for the coronet, I decided to start with accessories. First the Gollar I already posted about, and next a new hat.

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German gollar – Historical Sew Monthly January 2017

Finished teal wool Gollar worn with the wool-side out.

Finished teal wool Gollar worn with the wool-side out.

By early December I hadn’t yet started drafting a pattern for a Cranach gown, and was starting to feel nervous… when the Historical Sew Monthly posted the January theme, I could see an obvious item – and decided to make a German gollar for the challenge.

Historical Sew Monthly January 2017

What the item is: German Gollar

The Challenge: January: Firsts & Lasts – Create either the first item in a new ensemble, or one last piece to put the final fillip on an outfit.

Cathrin Åhlén (Katafalk) describes the gollar as a “common garment” for keeping warm; a short cape with “either a high collar or no collar at all, and it can be either short or it can be more of a cloak and go down to the hips”. She describes it as made in silk brocade with fancy clasps for higher social classes, but on “simpler women you almost always see no closure at all”. She speculates that those garments are closed with hooks and eyes, had no closures, or may have had hidden lacings. She notes that they can be lined in fur for extra warmth, and were often decorated with contrasting borders.

I found most examples of the border-decorated gollars on the ‘camp-follower’ (kampfraus, lower-class) styles, while when the gollar is worn with a Cranach-style gown, (court gown?) it’s almost always plain black. With that in mind I thought to make a semi-reversible gollar… though got a bit hung up on that when it came to the closure.

Since it’s a ‘top’ layer garment, worn over the dresses.. I would see it (and a hat) as the ‘last piece’ put on when dressing. In her “how to Frau” tutorial, Cathrin names the gollar as the last item (before accessories like purses, belts, etc). Funny enough, it’s the FIRST item I’ve made for this overall project, with the hopes that if I really can’t find enough time to finish the gown, that I can “throw” this over another gown and “pass” for an attempt at German. (Italian tourist perhaps?)

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Snakeskin knit dress

When I got some free fabric from a former teacher, I put this snakeskin knit into the “to make toilles with” box – it’s always nice to have some knit that I don’t really love that I can use to mock up patterns with to test fit…

But… after making some shorts and leggings (which I’ll blog about later… still need to take photos!) with it, it kind of grew on me. Not for every-day, but rather for 80s nights or theme parties… and there was a dress I wanted to make out of a similar fabric, so it was a good time to use this for the toile – a wearable toile if the pattern worked out.

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Silk Road garb (Part 4 – Propoloma)

Propoloma – The fan-shaped hat

Direct link from Pinterest

This wacky-looking hat really appealed to me right off the bat – plus I love the chance to wear something other than a veil (I can never quite seem to arrange one so it doesn’t get in the way of everything). I’m pretty sure it’s also described in other writing as the “fan-shaped hat” though different hat depictions seem to give a basic shape, and a more exaggerated shape – so this could be two different hats.

Another version of this hat can be seen on “Dance of Miriam with the Israelite Women”, which I’ve been unable to find as a stand-alone image, but you can see in Lady Ariadne Karbonopsina’s documentation.

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