Basketweave linen Viking coat


A coat for my Viking “wardrobe” hadn’t really been on my mind, until I ordered some fabric from – which I had hoped would work for an apron-dress, but when it arrived it was far too heavy to hang correctly. Since I didn’t really have anything else in mind, and the Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge  for early August was for something for “the Great Outdoors” I thought I would try out a Viking coat instead.

Unfortunately, I didn’t finish it in time for the August 15 deadline, so it’s really a late entry!

Since much of what I’ve read suggests that coats would have been made of wool instead of linen, this is already stretching a bit, but if nothing else it will make a good mock-up before making a wool version if I decide to make one…

The fabric is basketweave in navy and black 100% linen. The website suggests that the fabric is just navy, but it’s actually a black and navy weave. (It also comes in ‘maroon’, ‘black’, and ‘multi’, though the fabric is not reorderable, so it may not be available later on..) The website description says that the fabric is:

“This linen fabric is lightweight with a basketweave woven texture and a full-bodied drape. Perfect for dresses, pants, skirts, jackets and even home decor such as window treatments, pillows and tote bags!
Washing Instructions : Dry clean to maintain original texture or machine wash/dry low/remove promptly to soften.”

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Skjoldehamn hood – part 2

Embroidery stitches on my white wool Skjoldehamn hood version

Embroidery stitches on my white wool Skjoldehamn hood version

In my last post I talked a little bit about the reason I wanted to attempt the Skjoldehamn hood again, what I was using, and the pattern/measurements I was going to use.

Now that the hood is complete, I’ll share a little bit of how it came together. Continue reading

Skjoldehamn hood – a new attempt

Rectangular construction hood (not to scale)

Rectangular construction hood (not to scale)

I started off with Hoods – two ways where I far preferred the fit of the hood with shoulder gores over the rectangle-constructed hood after the design of the Skjoldehamn hood. Then I did some research….

…and it looks like the Skjoldehamn hood is appropriate for the time-frame I’m most interested in, which means I’m drawn to give it another try and see if different pattern sizes won’t make for a more comfortable hood.

(if not, I’m going back to the Hedeby hood style!) Continue reading

Hand-Made Penannular Brooch

Hand-Made Penannular Brooch

Hand-Made Penannular Brooch

Before I headed to Victoria, BC, I was keeping my eyes open for a Penannular brooch that I would like to purchase, but in the meantime I thought that I would try to make one of my own. I did end up getting my own ready-made, though I really like the ones I made too!  I’m sure there are better ways of making them, but since I don’t have much metal work experience, working with wire seemed like a good compromise that wouldn’t stress out my skill-set (or my budget!).


  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Fine-needle nose pliers
  • Wire cutters
  • Hammer
  • Forceps
  • Mini anvil
  • Cylindrical shaping tool (I used a film canister for my larger one, and a Mr. Sketch marker for the smaller one.)
tools and materials for my Hand-Made Penannular Brooch

tools and materials for my Hand-Made Penannular Brooch


  • 16 gauge silver-plated wire (I bought this at the bead store)


I made this brooch twice – once larger, and once smaller. On the first version I did  it a bit differently, but the second time I thought worked better, so here’s what I did:

  1. Cut a length of wire for the brooch, and another for a pin. Both can be trimmed if needed later, so cut a little longer if you’re not sure.
  2. For the brooch I shaped the wire around a cylindrical object (I used what was handy) overlapping the ends
  3. Using the very small needle-nose pliers I shaped one of the ends into a loop, and set the brooch aside for the moment.
  4. For the pin, I curled one end into a ring, which will go around the brooch.
  5. The other end I shaped into a point by hammering it and turning the wire. I found holding the pin with forceps helped a lot to hammer the wire – and not my fingers! (Especially with the smaller brooch.)
  6. I also hammered the length of the pin to work-harden it and retain the flat, straight shape.
  7. Before sliding the pin onto the brooch, I hammered the wire to work-harden it, shape it, and shape the ring.
  8. Next I slid the pin onto the brooch, and repeated the loop on the other side of the brooch.
  9. Finally I hammered the brooch (sections at a time, avoiding the pin) to flatten the loops and work-harden the wire into the nearly-a-circle shape.
Hand-Made Penannular Brooches

Hand-Made Penannular Brooches


Before I made my versions, there was a tutorial I found on Pinterest which recommends #6 copper wire for plumbing plus a brass braising rod.
However, I have also pinned this one from Deviant Art which uses a metal ring and Super Sculpty.


Black linen underdress

Neckline embroidery stitches on black linen underdress

Neckline embroidery stitches on black linen underdress

One of my most recent completed projects is a black linen underdress for my Viking wardrobe.  The same underdress is also suitable for a few other early-period costumes. The black linen is from, from my post not too long ago about online purchases.

The pattern

It was only after I made this dress that I thought about actually researching the underdress pattern – instead for this dress I used the same kind of pattern I’ve used a few times before for general early-period underdresses.  I’ve used this same general pattern (with some variations) for my most recent brown linen underdress, a blue underdress (with an embellished hem), a white linen underdress (with embellished hem) and a pink & purple underdress. Continue reading