Millinery: Black felt Tricorn

Screenshot from The Brotherhood of the Wolf from the Costumer’s Guide. My inspiration photo for a full-size tricorn.

In the first millinery (hat making) class that I took, I totally fell in love with felts, and really wanted to make a full-size tricorn hat.  I already have two mini versions, and in the process of taking the class also made two 3/4 size versions (red spiderweb and teal).  When I got my hands on a lovely black felt hood, I knew that it was destined to be a lovely black wool felt tricorn.  (Especially since I had already designated the red felt hood for a lovely top hat, and already own a black top hat…)

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Millinery: Silver fur felt topper

In the advanced millinery workshop post I mentioned a black and a silver topper – this is the spotlight post for the silver/grey topper. I’ll do a separate post for the black one as well.

silver fur-felt topper

silver fur-felt topper

These aren’t “real” top hats for a few reasons – the band is straight, rather than the slight hourglass shape typical to top hats, and the brim is turned instead of being blocked on their own and reattached.  I liked how the silver topper was turning out so well when I was working on them that I decided to work with a black one as well (even though I already have a black top hat…)

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Millinery: Green felt

Completed green felt hat

Completed green felt hat

Although I took the Millinery Class a while ago, I didn’t finish everything off right away… recently I finished a few of the projects that had been left to linger, and wanted to share them here.

Green felt

The second felt I worked on in the 7th Millinery class was a green felt.  This has a much deeper ‘pile’ than the other felts, and although the colour isn’t something I’d normally wear, it just feels so nice that I really wanted to work with it.  Unfortunately the only thing I could really think of to make with it was a cloche, and after the disastrous cloche attempt with the black straw hood, I wasn’t too keen on repeating the adventure since I was quickly running out of class time.

So, instead I settled on a shaped crown with a tipper, very much like a fedora.

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Millinery : Red felt top hat

In the 7th Millinery class (the original, not the advanced…) the first hat I started working on was a red felt top hat.

Steaming the red felt on the block

Part 1: blocking the crown

I started by padding a 23″ top hat puzzle block with felt, and then steaming my felt hood.  I began stretching the crown of  a ‘short’ capeline over the top hat puzzle block but I needed additional help from one of my classmates to accomplish this because it was very difficult!  From there I started pinning down the band of the hat, stretching the felt down bit by bit, working from North to South, East to West, (or 12pm/6pm, 3pm, 9pm depending on how you like) then doing the sections in between also from opposite side to opposite side.  I pinned down about an inch and a half to start, then kept going down further bit by bit – stretching the length to shrink the diameter of the hood to the block.

Once I was down as far as I figured I could go but still leaving enough for a brim, I let the whole thing cool, pins and all.

When I removed the hat from the block, I did so carefully, because the puzzle block wouldn’t release!  (The center section should come out easily when upside-down, so that all the pieces can be removed without stretching the felt any more, but it didn’t!)  I let it cool a little bit more, and then began work on the brim.

I started by trying to shape the brim over an existing brim block, but found it tedious and not very functional, so instead I steamed the brim and hand-shaped it to start.

At that point the class was over, so the rest I needed to do at home…

Part 2: shaping the brim

Once at home I tried hand-shaping the brim a bit more, comparing it to two other top hats I have (one small, the other full-size) but really thought there was just too much fabric in the brim to get it to do what I wanted it to do.

So…I decided to iron my brim with lots of steam to shrink in that excess felt.  But – I didn’t want the steam to affect the nice straight crown as well…. sooo… I got a crock pot, tipped it upside down over the hat, exposing just the brim.  Basically the crock pot acted like a barrier against the steam.  This worked really well to straighten/flatten out the brim.  There was a bit of an impression of the pot on the hat brim, but I thought I could still steam/brush that out, or perhaps that would be the place where some decoration could rest.

Part 3: wiring the brim

So from here I wired the brim.  I used the same techniques I have used before, so I won’t go into them here….

Part 4: trying it on and a decision to make…

Wired edges on the red top hat – looking a lot more like a western hat

From here, I tried on the hat – for some reason, I’m not keen on it. I’m not sure exactly what is wrong, but I suspect the brim is too wide. All that work I did getting lots of felt for the brim… and I think I will need to trim it down. It just looks too “Western” to me – which, living in Calgary (aka ‘the heart of the new west’) is exactly what I DON’T want.  Cowboy and western hats are a dime a dozen around here (ok, not really, and certainly not custom/hand made ones, but you get my jist..) and not something I want to add to my collection.

So, here’s a question out there to other milliners, costumers, and fabulously stylish people – what are your thoughts? Am I right to think it’s the brim that is messing me up here? Should I make the brim narrower? Help! Let me know your thoughts in the comments below.. I have a beautiful red top hat just waiting for me – I just need to make it!