Tweed German gollar

German gollar

Complete teal wool gollar – a German Renaissance capelette/collar

In early January I showed off a German Renaissance Gollar – a sort of cape/ collar/ partlet kind of over-garment/accessory. I made up my first version in teal wool suiting with black velveteen lining.

I wanted to try a different method for supporting the neckline, so decided to make a second version.

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German split-brim hat – Historical Sew Monthly February 2017

German Renaissance style costume hat

My German Renaissance Split-Brim hat with grey ostrich feathers worn with my black velveteen Gollar and my Cranach gown costume.

In mid-January the SCA barony I live in celebrated the step-up of a new Baron and Baroness, who have German personas. To recognize their elevation in a symbolic kind of way, several of us planned to add German elements to our existing costumes. As I wasn’t entirely sure if I could pull together a new German gown in time for the coronet, I decided to start with accessories. First the Gollar I already posted about, and next a new hat.

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Spinning New Zealand Shetland fleece

If you follow me on Instagram (pssst – follow me!) you might have seen that during December I was able to borrow a spinning wheel from a friend and begin spinning some different wools that I bought at the going-out-of-business sale at Shuttleworks.

Since not everyone who reads my blog follows me on Instagram, I thought I’d show off a few of the photos here. 🙂

This wool is all New Zealand Shetland fleece, a natural, undyed off-white colour.

I decided to spin LOTS while I had use of the wheel, so I haven’t actually MADE anything else out of this yarn since spinning and washing (setting) it. It will eventually likely be used for naalbinding, unless I can fall in love again with knitting perhaps….

German gollar – Historical Sew Monthly January 2017

Finished teal wool Gollar worn with the wool-side out.

Finished teal wool Gollar worn with the wool-side out.

By early December I hadn’t yet started drafting a pattern for a Cranach gown, and was starting to feel nervous… when the Historical Sew Monthly posted the January theme, I could see an obvious item – and decided to make a German gollar for the challenge.

Historical Sew Monthly January 2017

What the item is: German Gollar

The Challenge: January: Firsts & Lasts – Create either the first item in a new ensemble, or one last piece to put the final fillip on an outfit.

Cathrin Åhlén (Katafalk) describes the gollar as a “common garment” for keeping warm; a short cape with “either a high collar or no collar at all, and it can be either short or it can be more of a cloak and go down to the hips”. She describes it as made in silk brocade with fancy clasps for higher social classes, but on “simpler women you almost always see no closure at all”. She speculates that those garments are closed with hooks and eyes, had no closures, or may have had hidden lacings. She notes that they can be lined in fur for extra warmth, and were often decorated with contrasting borders.

I found most examples of the border-decorated gollars on the ‘camp-follower’ (kampfraus, lower-class) styles, while when the gollar is worn with a Cranach-style gown, (court gown?) it’s almost always plain black. With that in mind I thought to make a semi-reversible gollar… though got a bit hung up on that when it came to the closure.

Since it’s a ‘top’ layer garment, worn over the dresses.. I would see it (and a hat) as the ‘last piece’ put on when dressing. In her “how to Frau” tutorial, Cathrin names the gollar as the last item (before accessories like purses, belts, etc). Funny enough, it’s the FIRST item I’ve made for this overall project, with the hopes that if I really can’t find enough time to finish the gown, that I can “throw” this over another gown and “pass” for an attempt at German. (Italian tourist perhaps?)

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November Naalbinding

November's naalbound hat (and me being super-goofy)

November’s naalbound hat (and me being super-goofy)

Quick post today – just to show off the new naalbound hat I made, finished off in November.

It’s purchased 100% wool yarn, a dark grey heather made of Icelandic Lopi yarn. (The wool I brought back a year earlier from my trip to Iceland!) This is the alafosslopi.

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