Celebration – Italian camicia

Cheeky selfie in my new linen camicia. The linen is so fine, you can see the shadows of my other garments under it.

Cheeky selfie in my new linen camicia. The linen is so fine, you can see the shadows of my other garments under it.

I originally intended to make an Italian camicia to go with my Italian costume, but ended up running out of time so did a makeshift version in cotton instead.

I opted to FINALLY finish the Italian camicia (shift, underdress, chemise) that I started a year and a half ago for the costume I was making for the elevation of Caterina to the Order of the Laurel. I had intended to do this entirely by hand, but after doing four of the shortest seams by hand, I was frustrated with how long it took, so I decided to switch to the invisible/interior stitching done by machine. All of the seams are finished with a French seam, which I hope will suitably support the thin gauze fabric.

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Celebration – Gamurra (sort of…)

Completed bodice and skirt in green silk for the Italian "celebration" outfit

Completed bodice and skirt in green silk for the Italian “celebration” outfit

For Caterina’s elevation, I originally was going to do a later-period Italian Renaissance gown, but the fabrics offered just didn’t seem to lend themselves nicely to the period and my figure. I felt that the figured velvet would just be too bulky for all of the gathering and fullness in the later period fashions, and so I ended up opting to go back to the earlier Renaissance period that I’ve explored before and found flattering.

Concept sketch for the matcha-green silk dress and the teal figured velvet over dress

Concept sketch for the matcha-green silk dress and the teal figured velvet over dress

With this…. I’ve started using the 1480s tag as well for these posts, and switched from 16th Century to 15th Century. I’ll still use the Caterina’s Elevation tag however if you want to follow this specific project.

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June 2016 Historical Sew Monthly – Ottoman costume

Completed Istanbul outfit

Completed Istanbul outfit

I’ve already started posting about my Ottoman costume- and it happens to fit perfectly into the June 2016 Historical Sew Monthly challenge! Since the Ottoman costume is intended to participate in the current (SCA) Royal Progress (the King and Queen setting different locations that their personas are travelling on) it matches the theme of travel (inspired by the Royals’ travel) really well!

I started mid-May doing some of the initial research, in order to have the project done by the first weekend in June, and you can read all of the posts about the different element of this costume by clicking the Ottoman category.

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Istanbul: Shalwar

Lifting my hems to show off the Shalwar

Lifting my hems to show off the Shalwar

One of the last garments I made for my Turkish outfit is the pants – Shalwar, described from my overview as:

” Very soft and lightweight ankle-length pants. Wide at the thighs, narrowing at the ankle. Could be white, or patterned cotton or silk. “

I wasn’t sure if I would have time to make these as well, so thought of a) using my Norse pants (which also have a wide hip, and the “narrow cuff” would tuck into my boots anyways. or b) using some linen purchased pants instead

However… I DID end up having enough time to sew these up!

Pattern

Master Rashid’s pattern schematic

I used the pattern on Pinterest attributed to Master Rashid. This is an incredibly fabric-conservative pattern, basically taking the leftover from what is cut off to make the ankle narrow.

The schematic suggests making the “waist” quite large so that there can be a lot of gathering creating the big-hipped look… so I followed nearly as much as the schematic suggested (but not quite) for my muslin…

Muslin for the Shalwar

Muslin for the Shalwar

I made the muslin using a purple/blue cotton that I was given, and it turned out well… but really way too big. It really just wasn’t flattering.

The pants were also way longer than they really needed to be, so I also had to adjust that.

I ended cutting the finished pants from some lightweight navy blue linen, which is the same linen I used for my navy linen Norse underdress.  If I’d had more time, I might have printed it like the other garments – perhaps for a future version!

I sewed the pants up entirely by machine, and used the triangle from the leg to make the gusset for the crotch.

Marking the blue linen for the shalwar

Marking the blue linen for the shalwar

I did a waistband for the pants, but instead of just doing a drawstring (which I suspect would be the period option) I also fed elastic through the waistband, which just feels more secure.

Gomlek

I skipped making the Gomlek for this costume – because I already had a white linen underdress. The Gomlek is descriped (from my Overview post) as a:

“lightweight, sheer undershirt with long and narrow sleeves and a round neck. Later period Gomleks have wide, long sleeves. Appears to be generally white cotton, silk, or linen. May have embroidery or tablet weaving along the seams and hem.”

The underdress I ended up wearing with this outfit is a medium-weight white linen – with wider sleeves (like the later-period Gomleks). I would have preferred a lighter weight if I had something, but this works just fine. The red couching was already on it from before (I made this dress probably 10 years ago), not intentional for the Turkish theme…

Istanbul: Accessories

Completed Istanbul outfit

Completed Istanbul outfit

To compliment my Istanbul outfit, I made a simple belt and a necklace.

Belt

I really wanted a contrasting belt, but I also wanted it fairly long…

I had a navy blue silk skirt that I was given which I cut out for the main belt fabric, and then lined it with the same pink linen as the coat – I would have done it all in silk, but there wasn’t enough fabric.

The images show a fairly wide belt with a big knot – so I think that this is a good compromise.

Necklace

Complete Tarpus with the Hirka and my necklace

Complete Tarpus with the Hirka and my necklace

Most of the images don’t show much in the way of jewelry – but I really wanted to make a necklace to go with this outfit that would “feel” right even if it’s not especially documentable.

I might do more research later into extant jewelry, but this felt like the right style…

It’s made with three large pendants from Bead Landing’s “India” line, and two packages of earrings from the same line – the small earrings are very similar in style to the pendants. I bought five pendants, but when I strung them on the chain they didn’t hang correctly.

Components to make my Istanbul-feel necklace

Components to make my Istanbul-feel necklace